I have the above rifle in a hogue stock snd I have never been really satisfied with the accuracy of the rifle. Could be the stock or could be the shooter, I am not going to change the shooter but can change the stock.

I am having s hard time finding what I can identify as a replacement stock for the 300 RUM post 64 model 70 action with two piece bottom metal.

Any suggestions? Will any stock designed for a post 64 long action model 70 work? I found two piece to one piece bottom metal conversions so can do that if makes it easier.

Thank you!

Before I would replace the stock I would bed the action the first 3 inches of the barrel in front of the action and make sure the rest of the barrel is free floated.

What kind of accuracy are you getting, and what do you get with other rifles with similar recoil?

It shoots about 1.5” at 100 with handloads. That’s about the best I can get out of it. I also have several big bore rifles from 375 Ruger up to 458 Lott that I can shoot under an inch. This RUM also has a kdf brake on it if I choose to use it and kicks about like a .223 with the brake installed. I have just always “heard” the hogue stocks flex/warp causing accuracy issues. I would like to try something different. I have also “heard” bedding hogue stocks was a waste of time due to the construction of the stock.

How many rounds thru it ?

OK, you can shoot.
First clean all the copper fouling out and try again, and bed it like stated above.
Then if it won't shoot, you might have a bad barrel. That's an easy fix too.
Shot enough to wear out the throat? Could be......

I probably have 400-500 rounds through it. Yep tried the cleaning method still about the same. I use KG 12 followed by Bore Tech Eliminator using nickel plated jags until patches come out white. If decide to rebarrel then hesitant to bed as maybe better to do it with new barrel in place. If I rebarrel thinking of going to 300 Weatherby as tired of chasing RUM brass. Probably 26” 1:9 twist.

Get a selection of bullets in the same weight. Then load say ten of each with the same load.

I ran into that deal with a .223. Two of us came up with 19 various bullets from 40-55gr. Same load, varied 1 3/4" down to .230".

To verify that, I loaded ten more of the best shooting ten. sure as hell, 40gr V'max one hole. Surprising was the 55gr C/L made barely 1/2". When Nosler orange tips made 1 1/4".

My old burned up '17 Eddystone with 180gr C/Ls shot about 1 1/4" at best. After having one surface blow up on a 200yd cow elk's ribs. I got some 200gr Game Kings. Hell of a deal, 5 in just under an inch. Did that five times, all the same.

That barrel had been cooked til it glowed in the dark on p/dogs likely at least 50 times or more as an '06. Hey, when a kids only got one rifle, that's what he shoots, right?
Bore scope shows it's alligatored clear to the muzzle. Amazing it even puts 'em down range let alone an inch group. It's at the Smith's being rebarreled right now. Since '73 it's been a .300Win.

Have that barrel and throat especially bore scoped. Just to assure yourself it's good yet.

Big stuff don't always last long.

Good luck,
George

If you decide to go the wooden stock route, pm me. I can dremel out any areas that you want to bed.

A lightweight stock is Bell and Carlson with the aluminum bedding block. They are usually a little under $300 at Stockeys. You would need to buy a one-piece floorplate from for another $150ish.

McMillan will make you a stock to fit a two-piece floor plate. These run from high 400s on up.

Boyd’s has laminated stocks for around $200 or a little less. I think they offer both single and two-piece floorplates designs.

I should have specified that I have a stock from a Winchester 300 RUM CRF New Haven.

quote:

Originally posted by Sniper:
I probably have 400-500 rounds through it. Yep tried the cleaning method still about the same. I use KG 12 followed by Bore Tech Eliminator using nickel plated jags until patches come out white. If decide to rebarrel then hesitant to bed as maybe better to do it with new barrel in place. If I rebarrel thinking of going to 300 Weatherby as tired of chasing RUM brass. Probably 26” 1:9 twist.

I just started with KG-12 and it seems to live up to all the reports of it being the strongest copper cutter out there. Prior to that I used Bore Tech Eliminator. I found Elimiator to be stronger than the ammonia based copper cutters. My only issue is reading the patches since KG-12 doesn’t turn them blue.

So are you using Eliminator as an indicator to make sure the bore is clean?

Sorry for the hijack.....

I ordered a B&C and one piece bottom metal from Stocky’s on Thursday.

Yes I use the KG 12 first and then the Bore Tech for visual confirmation. You have to use nickel plated jags though or you will get a false positive.

Eliminator is easy to read and not even hard with a brass jag—just look to see what side of the patch has the heaviest color, though I do prefer nickel plated it aluminum jags. Regardless, I cannot read KG-12. The color on the patch looks the same after it comes out the muzzle as it does going in.

I have the B&C Medalist Ultralight on a couple M-70s, 300 RUM and 340 Wby, and really like them. The only issue I have seen is sometimes the bedding block has a high spot that will induce stress. It can be milled or ground down.