Guys

When rust blueing is it advisable to seperate barrel and action and blue them seperately then reassemble, or leave them together for the blueing process?

Cheers.

GG

I do not disasssemble them.

How does one go about carding the hard to reach areas inside the action: raceways, lug recesses, etc?

quote:

Originally posted by Woodhits:
How does one go about carding the hard to reach areas inside the action: raceways, lug recesses, etc?

I use degreased steel wool wads/balls and hemostats or slotted dowels to hold the steel wool. Ya just gotta get creative.

What he said. And an assortment of little stainless toothbrushes I keep degreased.

Thanks guys!

Thanks guys - thats good news.

GG

Dear GG375:

I have done it both ways.

With a Mauser, I've always had them disassembled, since I was using new barrels. Remember not to rust blue the threads. A little on your gloves won't hurt, when you are coating it, but otherwise don't nail those threads.

With Browning A-5 barrels and a Winchester Model 12 barrel, I don't remove the barrel extensions, and they seem to work out fine.

The key is to let the finished action with barrel sit for a full hour in the neutalizing bath after you are done. Also, spin it around a bit, so that bubbles don't attach to areas which would let the rusting solution continue after you remove it from the bath.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

quote:

Originally posted by GG375:
Guys

When rust blueing is it advisable to seperate barrel and action and blue them seperately then reassemble, or leave them together for the blueing process?

Cheers.

GG

If you look at classic German Mauser sporters, you see they only rust blued the exterior surfaces of the action. The wear surfaces and raceways were left in-the-white. When you apply the solution, you shouldn't be slopping it on. The barest film wiped on is all that is needed. That way it doesn't seep into the action threads. I seal the thread joint with lacquer to prevent oils from leaching out when I steam it between cardings.

quote:

Originally posted by Bobster:

quote:

Originally posted by GG375:
Guys

When rust blueing is it advisable to seperate barrel and action and blue them seperately then reassemble, or leave them together for the blueing process?

Cheers.

GG

If you look at classic German Mauser sporters, you see they only rust blued the exterior surfaces of the action. The wear surfaces and raceways were left in-the-white. When you apply the solution, you shouldn't be slopping it on. The barest film wiped on is all that is needed. That way it doesn't seep into the action threads. I seal the thread joint with lacquer to prevent oils from leaching out when I steam it between cardings.

That's exactly how my 1903 MS is finished - exterior surfaces only (and the entire bolt). I think it looks really nice.

Thanks again guys.

I have done a small amount of rust blueing before but only on small parts - Tally Mounts, a few screw heads and other odds and ends. This will be my first full rifle and I'm really looking forward to starting.

Cheers.

GG

Good luck, and post some pics of the finished project.