As many others have done, I have picked up a BRNO 602 that is being used to try out some smithing job on. I'd like to clean up the external surfaces of the metalwork which is really pretty rough.
My thoughts are to make up wooden sanding blocks for each section of the action, and start with 320grit paper working up to 800.
There are probably some areas I could buff with a cloth wheel too, and I'm writing here to learn if there are any handy tips on how to go about it. It will get sent away for reblueing once I've got it all nice n smooth.
Cheers.

Personally, since it sounds like you are learning here I would suggest staying away from buffing wheels. You can polish this action by hand and it will look nicer than what you could do with a wheel. After you've done a gun or two by hand then you'll know enough to see problems when you are buffing and keep them from turning into boo boos that you can't hide.

Your wooden block idea is sound. Some blocks are better if the sandpaper is taped on, some it is better if it is glued on (I like rubber cement, apply to wood and paper, let dry then stick together. Makes it easy to change paper when worn).

The best advice I have is use a coarse grit to sand it down, then only use finer grits to get the marks out. If you don't do that you end up polishing the entire gun with 22o grit which takes forever and a day, as well as a box and a half of paper.

Wooden blocks work well in some instances; however, I find things like art gum erasers, rubber gas line and some rubber sanding forms I bought from Rockler to work even better. Keep in mind you want sharp edges sharp and round parts round. It is easy to get carried away and round off an edge. Unless you have some deep blemishes, I think you are ok with 220 to start. Where you are smooth, but want to polish try the 320 or even 400. Don't waste time above 600 grit.

I've used release on the metal made plaster of Paris molds in or over them . Then made fiberglass forms, spray glued abrasive papers into them for Mirror image matches .

I also use Foams urethanes cast able rubber for this and other jobs .

Being in the composites business for many years it's not a big deal for me .

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

quote:

I'd like to clean up the external surfaces of the metalwork which is really pretty rough.

Depending on how rough it is, you may want to draw file it first. If your good with a file it will releave you a lot of time sanding. I agree, sand it out by hand, you will get much better results. If pitted, surface grinding could be in order? Good luck and Enjoy!

I often use flat stones and oil, just like drawfiling.