After talking to Shaw about their barrels, it seems that they aren't "short chambered".

How would one go about fitting one for headspace?

I'm aware of the procedure for finishing a short chambered barrel, but how does one do it W/a barrel that might be a bit long on headspace.

I realize a lathe would be needed, but how would you determine how much material to remove using standard headspace gauges?

Need to face off from breech face, and shoulder. Measure, with go gauge in place, distance to shoulder, and face. Then measure the same distances on your action. Make them the same, and then fit as normal from there. Mausers, I make bear mostly on the inner ring, and just touch the outer one. On everything else, obviously, it would only bear there. Just like fitting any barrel. I assume you know how to fit barrels so I left out some details, but you get the idea.\
They long chamber them so amateurs don't need a reamer, but if you cut off too much, then, you will. Need a reamer.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Need to face off from breech face, and shoulder. Measure, with go gauge in place, distance to shoulder, and face. Then measure the same distances on your action. Make them the same, and then fit as normal from there. Mausers, I make bear mostly on the inner ring, and just touch the outer one. On everything else, obviously, it would only bear there. Just like fitting any barrel. I assume you know how to fit barrels so I left out some details, but you get the idea.\
They long chamber them so amateurs don't need a reamer, but if you cut off too much, then, you will. Need a reamer.

Well actually this is my 1st attempt. It is a large ring 98 Vz500 action.

I think I got it though. Measure from bolt face to inner ring on the reciever & make the distance from the gauge to the barrel face the same.

Seems like amateurs would have easier access to a reamer than a lathe.

Deep chambers are by far the better way to go than short chambered barrels.
Just realize that on two reamers are EXACTLY the same dimensionally.
So why stick another reamer and probably a different manufacture in a barrel with a new chamber? You can run into a host of problems. Misalignment being one because depending on the caliber the new reamers pilot will not reach the bore to help guide the reamer. Deep chambered barrels just need to be have the breech efaced off a few thousandths to achieve the correct headspace.

Yes. Long chambered is the way to go if you aren't starting from a blank. Seeing that you need a lathe to cut the tenon to size, why not have a finished chamber. The short chamber barrel concept doesn't make any sense to me. It is just simple math, measure from the receiver face to the inner shoulder, then the receiver face to the bolt face. Measure the barrel using a go guage. Adjust the barrel accordingly. Factor in any desired crush (I'm not getting into that on an open forum) and you are good to go.
Don

Because of the cost of the reamers, to avoid that. Lathes are everywhere, reamers aren't. I used to use lathes in the DS Maintenance shop; they never used it.
You can do it.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Because of the cost of the reamers, to avoid that. Lathes are everywhere, reamers aren't. I used to use lathes in the DS Maintenance shop; they never used it.
You can do it.

I have a local machinist that works out of his garage @ a reasonable rate. He has an amazing array of machines in that garage & he is good. He will do little jobs for me while I watch. I think we can handle this.

I assume you use the "no-go" gage to allow for some crush?

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I assume you use the "no-go" gage to allow for some crush?

HMMM!

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HMMM!

exactly

The answer is no. And don't make any assumptions. Having said that, it is hard to kill yourself doing this.
The normal difference in go and no go gauges is .006, which is a lot, and it varies; once your barrel touches the seat, whether the inner or outer surface, you won't get that much thread "crush". Or if you have sloppy threads, you might. (Brass, ammo, and SAAMI chamber tolerances are far more than this)
Once you do this a few times, you will see what happens.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
The answer is no. And don't make any assumptions. Having said that, it is hard to kill yourself doing this.
The normal difference in go and no go gauges is .006, which is a lot, and it varies; once your barrel touches the seat, whether the inner or outer surface, you won't get that much thread "crush". Or if you have sloppy threads, you might. (Brass, ammo, and SAAMI chamber tolerances are far more than this)
Once you do this a few times, you will see what happens.

So would it be best to split the difference between the go & no-go after the thread slack is taken into consideration? The breech face will be pulled up to the inner face of the receiver.

And perhaps use a new case as well as one resized through my dies to double check. I'll be using Prvi Partizan brass.

The OD of the barrel will be turned to 1.10" to mimic a military profile near the breech so there will be minimal surface contact on the receiver face.

I just ordered the 1 1/2 Contour barrel from Shaw. It will be 1.150" @ the breech end as is so a minimal amount will have to be turned to copy the profile I want.


I am attempting to copy an existing profile similar to my 8X57 which has a recountoured military barrel. My son wants a copy of my 8X57, albeit in 7X57.

If you are headspacing off your brass, which is not a bad idea, then throw your go gauge away and make the bolt just barely close on brass you like. Bearing in mind that brass is a springy material and varies.
That is the process; splitting the difference; but you must torque up your barrel first, Never measure anything with a loose barrel. then, with gauges, you never actually never know where you are; some where in the middle. That is why they exist. Come over and I will show you; I can't explain it all here.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
If you are headspacing off your brass, which is not a bad idea, then throw your go gauge away and make the bolt just barely close on brass you like. Bearing in mind that brass is a springy material and varies.
That is the process; splitting the difference; but you must torque up your barrel first, Never measure anything with a loose barrel. then, with gauges, you never actually never know where you are; some where in the middle. That is why they exist. Come over and I will show you; I can't explain it all here.

I think I have the general idea.

As far as the brass goes, I just wanted to see how close I could go to the Go gauge spec W/O making it impossible to chamber factory brass, or at least brass that is re-sized W/my dies..

BTW: Here is the website 2 view picture of the semi-inletted stock I purchased a few years back that will be used on this project.

SAAMI specs allow for belted mags to be .212 minimum, and allow chambers to be .227. So, with some of those, you can be chasing dimensions, depending on your brass. All perfectly within spec, and usually unknown to the average shooter. You won't have excessive headspace, per the specs. Which is it is good to match your chamber to your brass, and particularly on belted mags; ignore the belt and use the shoulder; fit the brass to the chamber, or vice versa. Then you run the risk of not being able to shoot some new factory ammo, should it ever become necessary.
fun isn't it. Chamber must fit the use it will see.
Nice stock.

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Originally posted by dpcd:

Nice stock.

The barrel will be chambered for 7x57 Mauser, so it should be pretty straight forward as far as headspacing.

I picked up the stock as a "second" several years ago. The inletting at the rear of the receiver ring is just a little long but that area is easy to fill & still blend in. All of the rest of the inletting is near perfect. For the price I paid it was a bargain & worth a little work to salvage a great piece of wood.