Hi fellas,

I have a 700 BDL in the shop with the shiny polyurethane stock finish and it is damaged in the area of the forward sling swivel. It appears that I can get the dent removed, but I am not sure I can ever match that finish.

Anyone have a suggestion as to stain and or poly finish that will match?

They do not deserve any effort to repair; remove the whole finish and stain and oil. Or throw them in the corner; that is what I do.

Agree with dcpd

I removed that shiney finish on one years ago and it was tough! Can’t say the results was worth it. Still have the old stock I think.

Don't raise the dent. Polish the dent, getting out any white marks and degrease it. Then start filling in with gloss lacquer allowing adequate drying time between coats. If you get any white marks showing, touch up with a spirit stain marker (not oil) and keep going over it. Build it up above the surface of the stock. After it dries good and hard, work it down with 600 grit using water as a lubricant until level. Then switch to 1000 grit and finishing with 3000 grit auto polish. This will lens the color underneath and give the illusion of wood. And it will match!

quote:

Originally posted by 3584ELK:
Hi fellas,

I have a 700 BDL in the shop with the shiny polyurethane stock finish and it is damaged in the area of the forward sling swivel. It appears that I can get the dent removed, but I am not sure I can ever match that finish.

Anyone have a suggestion as to stain and or poly finish that will match?

COA 2: throw it in the trash and buy a Boyds stock; I would rather spend the $175 on a new, better, laminated stock than fix the factory one.

Well, he said the stock came into his shop for repair of the dent. So, he might not have an option other than to patch it up. Not a whole lot of labor involved. Mainly waiting for the finish to dry. But he can do something else while he's waiting. It would be a good upsell though.

I know.
Just being obstinate.

If it is a long right BDL I have a nice stock with plenty of figure in the butt I'll let go for a nice price.

Your problems speaks volumes about drawback of built up finishes.

Oil Finish...easily repaired and easily maitained.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Your problems speaks volumes about drawback of built up finishes.

Oil Finish...easily repaired and easily maitained.

Plus the added bonus of it looking like actual wood, not plastic.

Bobster- thank you for your detailed explanation.

Yes, I recognize the RKW finish is not what we consider to be a great finish. I prefer Danish oil, rubbed in with 1500 grit paper.

However, I am not the customer and I am trying to find a way to satisfy his wants.

I've repaired nicks/scratches in built up finishes with superglue. Invisible.

A long time ago I found it is difficult to get paid for the time involved for a job such as this. Nothing wrong with saying "no thanks". Not every job someone thinks they want done is worth doing.

Superglue. You need a special type of superglue, with an accelerant, to do it right (no white residue).
Starbond, get the medium thickness, and you can get it tinted brown if you want. Works well on scratches in the finish as well. Not meant to fill deep dings though. You will need to steam those first.

Never had a Minwax product I didn't like. Might give this one below a try.
Hope you don't sand away the divit. Only steaming with a crazy glue fill is recommended. Carefully scrape away the excess with a new razor blade. Then short strokes with 600 grit to level.


Minwax Helmsman High-Gloss Clear Spray Polyurethane, 11.5 Oz. 33250000

quote:

Originally posted by slivers:
A long time ago I found it is difficult to get paid for the time involved for a job such as this. Nothing wrong with saying "no thanks". Not every job someone thinks they want done is worth doing.

So true..and you can't make it up in volume!

Kendog: I left you a P.M.

There are several finish removers that cut through stocks and work on poly or anything else, use them about twice and then wet sand or dry sand back down to wood, its not rocket science..Oil is beauty and easy to maintain and my preference but that factory finish is bright and shiny and reflective in the game field and way more water proof. Id prefer poly finish on a laminated stock.

Allmost all my stocks are wood and oiled finish, but high gloss is better in snow and wet weather..Plastic stocks are better yet..The best stock for bad weather and hard knocks was the old Ruger boat paddle IMO..

Take your pick they all work OK if done right..

quote:

Originally posted by Russ Gould:
Superglue. You need a special type of superglue, with an accelerant, to do it right (no white residue).
Starbond, get the medium thickness, and you can get it tinted brown if you want. Works well on scratches in the finish as well. Not meant to fill deep dings though. You will need to steam those first.

Guitar luthiers do this often to repair finishes. Guitar repair forums are very useful for finish repair tips. Stewmac sells everything you'd need; I personally don't know the fine details.