Converting a buddys .270 to a 300 Ultra Mag. Installed the Sako extractor last night and noticed when I eject the shells they hit the scope. It just barely hits and ejects the empties fine. I followed the instructions carefully. Even called David Tubb himself about a minor problem I thought I might have, the slot actually cut into the bolt lug a tiny bit. This seemed a little odd to me but he said thats normal. After looking at it again, it seems like it should go even deeper into the bolt lug to throw the brass a little flatter. Is this a common problem with Sako extractors on a Rem 700. Is there anything I can do about it? Thanks for the help

Yes,
It is good to cut into the lug a bit. That throws the emppties more horizontally than vertically. Brownells carries a fixture that helps get the angle just right. I had one that threw high. I put some moleskin on the bottom of the scope.
lawndart

I learned about this problem the hard way, just like you did. The solution is to use the 308 size extractor not the magnum one. You can remedy this by grinding away some of the hook on the top (up) side to orient the ejection more horizontally.

Jim

Since the ejector on a 700 was designed and positioned to work with the position of the Remington extractor, not a Sako extractor, you are forced to do something to overcome the geometry that is trying to eject cases more upward rather than to the side. You can‘t move the ejector, so you are left with trying to modify the direction of tension the new extractor places on the case rim.

That now leaves you with an extractor that has an uneven grab on the case rim...great “improvement“, huh?

Marketing is a wonderful concept, ain’t it?

The guys who've posted have it correct... I've done one and a friend did a couple. I don't think it's a good idea. I don't like how the RH lug has to be undercut to extract properly (miss scope). As was said, a 308 sized (non-magnum) extractor may help. HS Precision did my friend's 340 WBY and his hit's his scope... nearly unavoidable. He put a little piece of black tape on the scope to keep it from getting dinged-up.

I’m going to be so bold as to piss in the Holy Grail and say that this conversion is ridiculous at best...and potentially dangerous at worst.

For every person you can find that says this is a good idea, I’ll find 10 that say the opposite.

If you want a Sako extractor...buy a Sako that is designed to operate with it. The ejectors, the bolt head, and the gas venting system on a Remington 700 were not designed to use that type of extractor...period, end of story.

I will not argue with, or try to change the mind, of someone who does not like the 700 extractors, bolt handles, or anything else...but if those features are so objectionable why buy a 700 in the first place? There are plenty of extremely well made rifles out there that have a claw type extractor and one piece bolts that will do anything and everything that a 700 will do...and do it safer and more reliably than a 700 with this ridiculous Rube Goldberg conversion.

I would suggest that anyone contemplating this conversion take a few minutes and read Lane Simpson’s article about it in Handloader magazine #123.

I agree with Rick and Brad.

AD

I've had afew rem bolt open and made smaller. Think they made jig for no mag and a mag sako extractor. Most normally sweat a bushing in place then open the bolt face also. High -Tech here in Colorado Springs does about the best job I've seen and he runs around $160 he just finished up on acouple 300mag for me and did the bolts also. Alot of time you will run into an ejection problem with a Sako with loaded rounds but they will work with a fired round. If you don't index the bolt body right when your opening the bolt face doesn't take much for a round to grab wrong. Alot are using a smaller extractor than the Sako and I think they work better. You should move the ejector to about the 1/2 o'clock postion and that get the round out better and away from the rifle. Well good luck.

quote:

Lane Simpson’s article about it in Handloader magazine #123.

Well, that settles it.

Seriously,
Like many other modifications, experience and an understanding of the physics involved make a difference (actually, experience and understanding usually go hand in hand). I have half a safe full of Sakos, and almost as many Remingtons (don't fret boys, I have added four Model 70s in the last year, and am starting to get interested in Mausers).
The big push to use Sako extractors didn't happen because of a real or only perceived problem with the Remington unit. It has to do with recutting the bolt face true and perpendicular to the long axis of the bolt/receiver/barrel triad when doing an accuracy make-over for a sniping/competition/varmint rig. How do you re-position and reattach the original extractor if the bolt face is deeper than when you started?? The simplest answer to that problem is to pitch the original extractor and install a Sako style unit.
All of my factory original Remington bolts have the issue extractor. All of my Remington bolts that have been worked over have a Sako style extractor. They were all done by people who had performed the conversion many scores to hundreds of times over the years. All of them told me that they walked a small trail of tears when learning the best ways to do the conversion. I have four Remingtons so configured. They all work well. I have an equal number in the original unnatural Remington state. Those work well as well.

I am having a .223 Remington bolt opened up to PPC dimensions this winter. That is another instance where the Sako style extractor is the best answer.

So, what to do? If you are having the full meal accurizing Rx done to your Remington, have a Sako style extractor installed. If you are only going to have the lugs lapped and the receiver face trued, save yourself $120.00 to $160.00 there, and spend it on practice ammo.

I enjoy reading Layne Simpsons articles. Don't assume that every word is carved in stone though. He wrote an essay about the M-1A in an issue of Rifle that provided for some mirth and merriment while we were eating hamburgers after a high power match a while back.

lawndart

lawndart,

Never said Mr. Simpson’s views were the end of the discussion...just something to consider before having this ridiculous (IMHO) conversion done.

As for having to replace the factory extractor after squaring the bolt face, you are mistaken. I do it all the time, and so does everyone else I know that blue prints 700’s, and the factory extractor is not the least bit effected by the process. Opening up the bolt face (which is another questionable practice on a 700) might require this, but not when merely squaring the bolt face.

quote:

Originally posted by lawndart: