OK guys, this is not something I mind taking to the local smith, just thought if it were something we could diagnose together and I could fix it would save me a little hassle.

I have a dan wesson model 15, the 357, 4" barrel. It shoots fine, loud little sucker, but no real complaints other than full house loads I seem to remember (months ago last time I shot it) feeling some powder out the sides maybe.

Took it two weeks ago and put about 5 cylinders of 38 special through it. working it double action I didn't notice any problems. single action though every once in a while, a couple times per cylinder full maybe, it wouldn't rotate when I pulled on the hammer. It would just hang up and didn't want to be persuaded. I can't remember but I think gonig back to double action is what got me past those hang ups.

Any ideas what is going on or just take it to the shop? back home i tried it again with both empties and loaded rounds in it, no problem. I thought maybe under recoil something happens that jams stuff up?

Thanks guys.

Red

Make sure the ejector rod is not loose, which if partially unscrewed makes the whole ejector rod system longer and allows the star wheel to get pushed back into the recoil sheild...tying up the cylinder when you try to rotate it. An easy check/solution. The same thing can happen if you get a few kernels of unburnt powder under the ejector star wheel.

What did you set the barrel gap at? IIRC, you're looking for .006 on those.

On the surface it sounds to me like the cylinder stop timing is a little out of whack. Like the hand is trying to rotate the cylinder before the cylinder stop has completely cleared it's notch. Sometimes this problem is more pronounced in the single action mode due to the direct action of the key parts without involving the double action fly, which can mask the problem. Next time it hangs up, look under the cylinder to see if the stop is still in the notch. If so, then this is your problem, and is best left to a gunsmith who is competent with double action timing issues..

thanks guys, I'll check these all out, hopefully it isn't the last, if so then I'll drop at local shop who I think is familiar with dan wesson's anyways.

Red

Happened to mine also . It took a while to figure out. I doubled up the feeler gauge for the barrel gap and it stopped.

Wow, guess I never checked it out thoroughly before. I bought it used and didn't get the feeler gauge and wrench with it.

Projector rod is tight. The barrel shroud isn't perfectly straight, but I think it's really something with the timing. I'll explain why.

double action it works fine, just like I said, but if I go single action the cylinder rotates but the cylinder stop doesn't engage the cylinder notch fully. I couldn't get it to jam again, but if I put pressure against the cylinder while pulling the hammer back the cylinder will slip, if that makes sense. A gunsmith told me one time that a way to tell if your gun was out of time was to do that, it didn't cause problems with my s&w when I did it back then.

anyways, obviously beyond my skill set. I'm gonna take it to the local shop this week.

Red

With any new purchase of a used gun a good cleaning is one of the best places to start. I would pull the side plate and flush out the internals. I would then make sure the barrel is gapped correctly. I don't think something is wrong with a gun until it is clean and everything is in spec. Not saying it will solve your problems but it is an easy place to start.

As for the cylinder slipping. Is is it slipping once the hammer is fully cocked? Any revolver cylinder will turn as you cock it. Need to get the hammer back about 1/3 to half way before the cylinder latch engages.

All right guys, I'll tell you where I'm at now.

To clarify the issue I was having before, when you would cock the gun single action the cylinder stop would not be in the notch, meaning the cylinder would not be in line with the bore. You could rotate it clockwise (if the gun is facing away from you, opposite of the direction an S&W goes) it would lock. If you rotated it the other way it would go back and lock in the previous notch.

As suggested I stripped it down, thoroughly cleaned, oiled and reassembled (it's a bitch by the way to get the trigger return spring in right).

Now it will cock on single action and lock into the notch without problem, I did it about 30 times or more, if you have a dan wesson you know why I stopped at that point. it was that or get gloves, damn sharp serrations on that hammer.

The only thing I worry about is that if I put a little drag on the cylinder it'll slip and won't turn it around. I do the same thing on my model 27 and it turns that bad boy no problem. Then again, it's a smith

I still need to check the cylinder gap, I'm pretty sure that has to be off, but won't know till I get a wrench and gauges (I'll use some feeler gauges in my uncles shop this weekend, but have no wrench to mess with it till I order one from CZ).

Is the behavior of it not turning with a little drag on the cylinder normal/acceptable? Is this a worn hand causing that?

Thanks

Red

All right, I have figured it out, at least narrowed down to two possibilities. The hand and extractor look worn. The hand is slipping off the notch in the extractor just as the cylinder is almost in position. without any drag it's fine but just a touch and it doesn't lock in place. some expensive f*&#ing parts, but what're you gonna do. Gonna change the hand spring at the same time just because.

Red

The hand is supposed to slip off at some point. A worn hand simply slips off sooner. "What're you gonna do"? Find someone experienced to look at it before you throw way good money.

Well I may be wrong, let me tell you my thinking and see if you still think I should take it to a shop.

There's only one shop I can take it to, they're gonna charge me to work on it right, I'm not sure the shop rate but gotta be at least 45 an hour. I figure the parts are cheaper to replace outright than to spend the extra money on shop time.

Of course if it could be something else, or I could F it up then might as well take it to the shop. I just figured if it was simple replacement of a couple of parts I could hardly mess it up.

thanks.

Red

Extractors/ratchets and hands aren't generally a drop in item on a revolver. There are critical timing issues involved requiring a certain amount of precision fitting. Because of this, most manufacturers won't sell extractor/ratchets to the public. They are usually factory installed items only.

Great. I guess I have to take it to the shop. I'd like to learn how to do this because I'm curious what affects the timing, and because it may be soon we won't have a gunsmith local any more. with rifles that doesn't matter I've been shipping them off for years, but with handguns and having to ship FFL to FFL it sucks for cost.

Thanks west, I'll take it to local shop next week. Parts are available from CZ now.

Red

quote:

Originally posted by Dago Red:
OK guys, this is not something I mind taking to the local smith, just thought if it were something we could diagnose together and I could fix it would save me a little hassle.

I have a dan wesson model 15, the 357, 4" barrel. It shoots fine, loud little sucker, but no real complaints other than full house loads I seem to remember (months ago last time I shot it) feeling some powder out the sides maybe.

Took it two weeks ago and put about 5 cylinders of 38 special through it. working it double action I didn't notice any problems. single action though every once in a while, a couple times per cylinder full maybe, it wouldn't rotate when I pulled on the hammer. It would just hang up and didn't want to be persuaded. I can't remember but I think gonig back to double action is what got me past those hang ups.

Any ideas what is going on or just take it to the shop? back home i tried it again with both empties and loaded rounds in it, no problem. I thought maybe under recoil something happens that jams stuff up?

Thanks guys.

Red

Dan Wesson Revolvers have a "floating" firing pin that is not part of the hammer and any dry fire practice (without snap-caps) can cause a raised ridge around the firing pin hole that you need to swage down with a drift punch

That extra drag as it approaches battery can hang you up and actually cause "hand" wear.

So look at the flatness of the breech face first

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