The Accurate Reloading Forums
Can you recommend a de-greaser that won't harm existing bluing?
Can you recommend a de-greaser that won't harm existing bluing?
I'd like to get some recommendations for de-greaser (as in remove oil) that won't harm existing blue? I'm using a few things, but I'm not overly thrilled with any of them. Any suggestions?
EDIT: I should have given more info. This isn't a once in a while thing, it's an often thing.

And I'm talking about revolver cylinder throats, which don't lend themselves to scrubbing. I've been using Birchwood Casey gun scrubber as well as non chlorinated brake cleaner. Neither is getting the cutting oil out as well as I need.
09 July 2005, 09:11
new_guycarburator cleaner from your local auto parts store.
09 July 2005, 09:23
rootbeerDO NOT USE CARBURETOR CLEANER!! The stuff is very powerful and will eat just about any metal if it stays in contact too long. I'd try a little Murphy's Oil Soap and a lot of elbow grease or just some Dawn dishwashing liquid and then blow dry with high-pressure air (if you have access to it) or use cotton towels right away. Low-tech? Maybe, but cheaper than a reblue.
09 July 2005, 09:29
ShopCartRacingB-C Gun Scrubber
K-B Gunk Out
G96 Crud Buster
the list goes on and on, none harm bluing and they are all high pressure, which is nice for blowing out junk.
-Spencer
09 July 2005, 15:54
eddieharrenWhy is there cutting oil in your cylinder throats?
Boiling solution of TSP [trisodiumphosphate] will quickly remove oil, the varnish from oxidized oil,etc.DO NOT USE ON ALUMINUM.
09 July 2005, 16:33
jeffeossosimply green...
rinse...
treat IMMEDIATLY or you will get surface rust
if you buy the concetrate, use warm water to dilute
jeffe
09 July 2005, 17:52
new_guyquote:
Originally posted by rootbeer:
DO NOT USE CARBURETOR CLEANER!! The stuff is very powerful and will eat just about any metal if it stays in contact too long. I'd try a little Murphy's Oil Soap and a lot of elbow grease or just some Dawn dishwashing liquid and then blow dry with high-pressure air (if you have access to it) or use cotton towels right away. Low-tech? Maybe, but cheaper than a reblue.
I've never sustained any damage on cold, hot or rust blued guns. Have you?
09 July 2005, 18:04
tiggertateAnother option is one of the citrus oil products. You want a 100% oil, not a detergent blend. Sometimes you can find it at auto parts stores being sold as a non-petroleum engine cleaner in a spray can.
"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
09 July 2005, 18:33
steve65miletec1..................
http://www.militec1.com/09 July 2005, 18:37
steve65sorry its not a degreaser...............but good for every thing else.

09 July 2005, 20:04
iamgeneNon-chlorinated disc brake cleaners, the aerosol cans..ala STP, Prestone and Tech One by Wally Mart.
09 July 2005, 20:54
HP Shooterquote:
Originally posted by iamgene:
Non-chlorinated disc brake cleaners, the aerosol cans..ala STP, Prestone and Tech One by Wally Mart.
+1. It doesn't harm ANY metal finish that is used in firearms. It makes blueing, parkerizing, and anodizing look dull only because it *completely* removes all traces of oil and grease. Relube and it looks like new.
09 July 2005, 21:00
Rick 0311Ditto to iamgene’s suggestion.
I have been using arosol brake cleaner for degreasing guns, tools, and just about everything else for years and have never had a problem with damage to a finish. Plain old ATF also works well for cutting heavy grease deposits.
Simple Green and the newer Citrus products work pretty good also but require allot of soaking and scrubbing.
Another harmless solution that works similar to Simple Green and Citrus products and is good on grease is Dr. Bronners castile soap...and it smells good too!

Quicksilver Carb cleaner.
Don
09 July 2005, 21:37
Rick 0311cas,
How are you getting “grease†building up in your cylinder throats anyway?
09 July 2005, 22:02
Savage99quote:
Originally posted by Rick 0311:
cas,
How are you getting “grease†building up in your cylinder throats anyway?
A clarification is needed as to what you are trying to remove from the cylinders? If they are free from fouling a little oil will be a benefit?
Join the NRA
LOL... I ream cylinder throats.
www.cylindersmith.com/ After I work on them I cold blue them for a little temporary rust protection, and mostly because people like to see them blue again when they get them back.

I've used BC Gun scrubber as well as brake cleaner from Wally World for years. But I recently started using "Cool Tool 2" as a cutting oil. It's working MUCH better than what I used in the past, however I'm not having much luck with degreasing them well enough afterwards.
09 July 2005, 23:11
Customstoxcas,
As Jeffe said, simple green. The best degreasers are needed when you rust blue and this is the go to cleaner now for that. I have found some auto commercial cleaners that seem to do as well.
Thanks guys, I'll pick some up and give it a try.
10 July 2005, 05:31
delloroCRC contact cleaner. it's good ol' chlorinated solvent, so it works the best but costs the most.
read the labels. you do not want any methanol in it for the best grease removal.
10 July 2005, 09:11
LorenSGasoline or Kerosene
WD-40
Liquid Wrench
When cleaning my bike I use Gas, diesel fuel or WD-40 and then simple green. The fuels thin the grease enough for the soap to dissolve them.
10 July 2005, 23:39
rootbeernew_guy:
I once was witness to a carburetor having been soaked in carb cleaner for what was obviously too long a period of time. The thing was pitted and looked like it had been shotpeened. I would never clean a gun with the stuff. Elbow grease is non-toxic and washes right off with hot water and soap. Why risk it?
11 July 2005, 03:43
dempseyMost carbs are some sort of aluminum alloy.
______________________
Always remember you're
unique, just like everyone else.
11 July 2005, 06:38
Scota4570Acetone