I picked up a very inexpensive black walnut blank off ebay.
Nice figure and thickness too.

Just had it turned, and a portion of the final wood (for a Mauser 98) is a lighter shade of brown (tan) than the other 70% of the stock.

The lighter areas remind me of claro walnut that I've had.

As the stock just sits here (I have to put off finishing it for awhile), the color is becoming more uniform, presumably from oxidation occuring.

Is there a staining technique that can be used to bring the color into a more uniform hue?
The figure within the wood is continuous and is the same in the light and dark sections.

Thanks,
Garrett

A masking type Dye stain with an overall blending technique in the stain and or in the finish .

Depending on the type of finish used of course . Google Mohawk refinishing products or any reputable

commercial furniture refinishing product line . Chances are there may be a Free workshop being held in

your area at any given date .

On stocks with sap wood I use a TransTint walnut dye http://www.rockler.com/product...age=11448&filter=dye

I mix it with alcohol so it will not lift the grain. Use the dye on only the area that is light and blend it into the darker area. The top of the stock below was very blond. I used the dye as well as a propane torch (per Chic's instructions) to darken it.

I have used Bichromate of Potash to darken walnut to match an old board I repaired in an antique table.

Thanks...both great suggestions.

I should mention, this isn't sap wood at all, but it's that uncommon example of walnut heartwood with less pigment.
It's described by woodworkers, but I've never seen a very good scientific explanation of why it occurs.
For whatever reason, there is less pigment in that area of the tree. The wood is the same density in the lighter areas, and the same strength.

Garrett

Ramrod,

BTW, nice stock in the picture above.

Thanks,

Garrett

quote:

I've never seen a very good scientific explanation of why it occurs

Michael Jackson syndrome?

quote:

BTW, nice stock in the picture above

Thanks.
Like yours mine wasn't sap wood just a VERY blond area. I like the dye vs stain because dye doesn't have any particles in it so it soaks into the wood a lot better. If you use dye use rubber gloves because it is he!! to remove from your skin.

RamRod340 ;

FYI ; Dye stain is a finer grind than pigmented stains both are in fact stains .

Pigmented stains also can be water or Oil based with all types of additives Gel Stain

is another name for them .

Dye type are generally soluble in Thinners Alcohol Lacquer Mineral even water .

As you pointed out earlier a thinner soluble is preferable over water in my opinion to .

Nice looking stock !!!.

quote:

FYI ; Dye stain is a finer grind than pigmented stains both are in fact stains

I just go by what my instructor told me years ago. There are pigmented stains, dyes and combinations of the two "pigmented dyes".

Following quotes are from rockler:

""The wood color effect of most wood stains is produced by either a “pigment” or a “dye”, or a combination of the two. It’s important to understand the difference - they behave very differently from one another. The most familiar type of colorant – pigments - are fine particles of inert compounds, and include natural pigments, such as ochre, umber and sienna, and synthetic pigments, which come in a wider variety of colors and go by less poetic names, like Quinacridone Violet and Phthalo Green.

The main difference between the two has to do with the depth of the color they produce, and the degree to which they obscure the grain pattern of the wood. Contrary to the common conception, pigments don’t actually “soak in” to the wood. They rest of the surface. Dyes, on the other hand, do actually penetrate the cell structure of the wood. Because of this, dyes tend to produce more transparent and natural looking results.""

I build a lot of furniture and restore antiques. I have used what they call "water soluble dye stains" which are usually in dry form and your mix with water. I was "TOLD" they were pigment and dye. Pigmented stain has a better colorfastness than dye. So the combination was to try and get the clear grain color from a dye and colorfastness of a pigment.

I have switched to "premetalized dye" TransTint happens to be what I use.

"""A more recently developed type of dye – known as metalized or premetalized dyes – offers a significant improvement in colorfastness over “standard” dyes. Often referred to as NGR (non-grain raising) dyes, these dye stains come premixed in a blend of alcohol and a retarder (to slow down the drying process). Concentrated NGRs, like Homestead TransTint Dyes are particularly useful for the hobbyist. They can be mixed with water or alcohol to produce about 1 quart of dye stain per ounce, and they are also exceptional for tinting a variety of wood finishes"""

These dyes alow me to mix the color I want when trying to repair old furniture.

Thanks for the stock comment. It was basically a throw away from Bishops years ago because of a knot flaw and the blond patch. I had bought another and they threw this one in for a few $$.

That is correct what they may be failing to mention some NOT all Dye stains are derived

from pigments that are Soluble in other words dissolve in either water or solvents including

alcohol . Any are still obtainable in Powder form .

Another source by manufactures .


Stain is a combination of dyes and pigments suspended in a solvent. Soluble dyes dissolve in compatible solvents and provide greater grain clarity, meaning the grain shows through the stain. Insoluble pigments are finely ground coloring materials that disperse but do not dissolve in the solvent. These insoluble pigments tend to cloud the grain. Stains need to be mixed frequently so that the pigments remain evenly dispersed and neither completely reveal or obscure the grain. Stains are generally characterized by the type of solvent that is used in their production. Thus, the most frequently used stains include alcohol (sometimes called non-grain raising stain), water, and oil stains. Each solvent affects the way the stain looks and handles. Today, oil stain is manufactured in the greatest quantity and the most familiar to the amateur woodworker. There are two types of oil stains. These include penetrating oil stain, which sometimes bleeds and fades, and wiping oil stain (sometimes called pigmented stain), which is more consistent and does not streak.

Regardless of solvent, stains generally penetrate only the top layers of the wood. Thus, the stain can be stripped and sanded away, revealing the original color of the wood. Stain must be topcoated or finished, meaning that once it is dry some kind of surface finish is applied to protect the wood surface and stain from moisture, scratches, unwanted stains, dirt, and chemicals. Wood stains are compatible with natural finishes such as varnish or shellac, and synthetic finishes such as polyurethane or acrylic.


The raw materials essential to the production of wood stain vary by type. Water stains use water as the solvent and include water-soluble aniline (chemically derived) dyes to impart color. Non-grain-raising stains, sometimes referred to as alcohol stains, are manufactured using alcohol or glycol as the solvent with alcohol-soluble aniline dyes used in their production. Because alcohol dries almost instantly, this dye is not able to be manipulated much and essentially the stain is set as it is applied.

Oil stains utilize mineral spirits for the solvent. Mineral spirits help the product's viscosity and ease of application and are the volatile ingredient in stains (rags soaked with stains have been known to instantaneously combust and must be carefully disposed). Oil stains also generally use linseed oil as the resin or binder that has been treated with special acids so that it will not penetrate too deeply into the surface of the wood. Pigments come in 50-lb (23-kg) bags and are generally iron oxide pigments (although this may vary). Metallic salts are important ingredients as they help the product oxidize and permit the oil stain to dry. Finally, a thickening agent that also helps control penetration into the wood is needed. These thickeners are often proprietary and may not be discussed by the manufacturer.

Because oil stains are made with solvents considered hazardous, many woodworkers are turning to the water stains because they are environmentally friendly. Water stains move deeper into the wood than oil. But they don't always have the depth of tone or color that oil stain imparts on the first coat. It may require a few coats to get the desired color. Also, water stains tend to raise the grain, considered undesirable if one wants a smooth, even surface when the piece is topcoated. The future of all paints and oil stains made with linseed oil and mineral spirits is in question as the disposition of the used and contaminated products are becoming an issue.

This is not posted as any disagreement just additional information .