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I just found my blued shotgun has 1 small spot of fairly serious rust on just one place. Is there any reasonable way to deal with short of redoing the whole barrel? It doesn't need to be museum quality, but I won't accept it looking like I went over it with a paint roller. Sand Creek November 29 1864 | ||
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It can be done and will match pretty good. I have used steel wool to clean up the area and hope that it isn't deep enough to be necessary to use some 320 emory. Clean with hot soapy water and then apply some of Mark Lee's rust blue. After a few minutes use a clean cloth folded several times. Apply clean water with the cloth and follow up with a hot iron to steam the area being repaired. Card off and repeat several times until you get a matching color. I have used this methods on O/U's and doubles. | |||
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I'm aaaalomost tracking with you. So very close. What does card off mean? Sand Creek November 29 1864 | |||
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A method I have had good success with, if the rust is light, is to soak the rust for a few days with an oily rag until it softens and then card it off with the mouth of a brass cartridge case or a copper penny which has been filed down to a sharp edge. Once the rust is gone clean the brass or copper off the steel with a copper removing bore cleaner like CR-10 or Montana Extreme. This method will not scratch the steel and is easy on the bluing. | |||
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You remove the rust. Some use 0000 steel wool that has been degreased. I used this method on an old muzzle loader. When carding off the rust, you are only trying to remove the loosely adhering scale. Using a coarse cloth such as an old piece of denim blue jeans works fine for this. You can also use an old toothbrush in the hard to reach areas. The advantage of carding with a piece of cloth is that no matter how hard you rub, you can’t go too far. Some gunsmiths prefer using 0000 steel wool for carding. If you use steel wool, it is possible to completely remove the brown by carding too vigorously. If you are striving for a very smooth/glossy brown carding with 0000 does work particularly well. Just make sure you do not card too hard. The smoother the steel is to start with and the smoother you card the surface, the smoother the final finish will be. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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where does the term "carding" coming from? Why not just say wipe or remove or buff or rub? Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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Carding - a wire toothed brush for brushing wool etc . From my 1935 F&W | |||
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This, I still buy "file cards" to clean my files. | |||
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Yep that's it. I have a few in the tool box www.KLStottlemyer.com Deport the Homeless and Give the Illegals citizenship. AT LEAST THE ILLEGALS WILL WORK | |||
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Depending on how big, how deep, what the original surface bluing looks like, etc, WD-40, LPS, Kroil, navel jelly or just about ANY "de-ruster" and 0000 steel wool will work...just ber SURE to try the product on a tiny area that can't be see to be sure it won't eat the bluing...as bluing is a form of rust. But I also use a motodremel tool with the fine wire brush or the wheel as I can control just how big the surrounding surface is affected... Then degrease...spray brake cleaner is excellent... and use a bluing PEN to touch it up...much easier to use on small spots than a Q-tip. Every "home depot" or the like will have all the products you need including small wire and brass brushes AND a cheap motodremel tool and accessories. Mike....where'ya'ben?...the term "carding" has been around forever, its definition is even in the dictionary.  Luck | |||
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-and carding wool, the tool similar to a file card. card (v.) "to comb wool," late 14c., from O.Prov. carda, from cardar "to card," from V.L. *caritare, from L. carrere "to clean or comb with a card," from PIE base *kars- "to scrape." 1325–75; Middle English carde < Middle French: literally, teasel head < Late Latin cardus thistle, variant of Latin carduus http://www.etymonline.com/inde...h=card&searchmode=nl http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/card   | |||
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Steam the spot for 5-10 minutes in live steam to convert the ferric oxide to ferrocitic oxide(magnatite) or as it is commonly known - rust blue. This will prevent the spot from showing white metal when carded. Then buff or card off the remaining rust with 0000 steel wool. Carding is just the proper old term for wire brushing off rust. | |||
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