SOmeone told me of a bubble level that can be mounted on your scope to make sure you cant the gun(or not) the same each time you fire. Where can you find such an item? Thanks D

The device I use on my Savage 10FP is made by Scoplevel. You can get it from www.natchezss.com

A less obtrusive device is made by B-Square, and can also be bought from Natchez. It mounts either to the Redfield style mount, or to a Weaver rail under the scope.

The bubble level is useful at ranges beyond about 400 yards. Up to that point, cant (unless it is very severe) isn't going to affect you that much.

The Scoplevel device costs about 25 dollars, and it mounts around the tube of the scope and folds down when not in use. You mount it on the forward portion of the tube and you can actually see the bubble level from the shooting position.

Dan Newberry
green 788

Of the different models out there, I use the ScopLevel too. I have one on each of my precision rifles.

Russ

Yup, I use the ScopLevel too, especially on my varmint rigs.

George

Gentlemen,
I made mine from cheap tasco scope ring and a spirit level purchased from Harbor Freight Tools for ninety eight cents. came with three leval vials for that price. Turned the scope ring upside down and milled a slot for the leval to sit in, epoxied to ring and mount on the scope. Very cheap to make but very effective.

Call this a dopey question if you like, but how do you know you've mounted the scope leveller absolutely 100% dead level horizontal in the first place?

If you level the reciever then clamp the ring retaining the level tight when the bubble is centered, that's it. The higher the bubble is attached to the rifle the more sensitive it is to the canting.

Brent, How do you level the receiver?? I have been playing this game for quite a few years, and have yet to find a foolproof way to level the receiver. Most say to attach the bases and use a level on the base. I have seen too many actions that had the base screws drilled out of wack. You level according to the front base, then check the rear base and get a different reading. What I usually end up doing is to mount the scope, take the gun to the range with a target made up with a 3' high vertical line. I take my level with me and make sure that the target is plumb. I then adjust the gun so that the vertical crosshair is matching the plumb line on the target. The next thing I do is to shoot as low on the target as I can and adjust my windage until I cut the vertical plumb line. Then I will crank up the elevation nob about 3 or 4 full turns, then shoot still aiming at the first hole in the bottom of the target, If I shoot and cut the vertical line high on the target then its logical to assume that the scope and gun are level. The only way this works is if your gun is a tack driver to start with. There are lots of gizmos out there designed to make this easier, I have yet to find one that works.

Rich, That sound like a great way to do it. I just use the crosshair to level the reciever after using a bore sighter with crosshairs.

If you truely have the vertical crossshair intersecting the bore center no horizontal shift in impact of groups will result when a group is fired low then adjusted to shoot high as you said.

If your vertical crosshair is parallel to the plum edge of the target that's where to set the bubble level.

I have only used a boresighter to vertical the crosshairs to the bore myself and set out in the yard and use the corner of the house as a plumb line to install the level.

Rich,
Your bullets are not likely to be that accurate nor is your shooting. If you can cut a vertical line with your rifle, it is just luck.

If you have a mauser or Winchester, the bottom of the barrel has a flat and you can align the scope using the base of the action and the top of the scope. If you have a dial calipers they work great. The bottom jaw on the bottom of the action and the top jaw on the elevation adjustment cap or on the adjustment ring with the cap off. All there is to it. If you have a round receiver you will have to use one of the visual levelers available at places like Brownells.

Customstox, Even if the gun wasn't capable of cutting the vertical line, a 3 shot group would tell you what was going on, then adjust accordingly. I have done this with my 6 BR 1-8 twist with 107 gr Sierra bullets several times. I have always been able to cut the vertical line, [I use a magic marker which which is about 3/16" wide] maybe not dead center, but the line was cut.

Rich,
Let me explain it to you with geometry. If you raise the point of impact 2 feet with the elevation and the scope is off by 5 degrees (easily seen by the human eye) then the lateral difference movement is 2 feet times the sine of 5 = 0.17 inches. If you are shooting a 1/2 inch group with your rifle ALL the time, which I doubt, then the upper shot can be anywhere left or right by .50". That is realizing that your shot could be on the extreme of your group. If it is centered then the difference can be 0.25" which is beyond the span of the difference created by the 5 degrees. A small error in being out of level will be overshadowed by your group width. A 3 degree difference will give you less than half the stripe width and you will still be in the stripe.

Your method still doesn't wash. You may be happy with it but it is doing nothing for you.

[ 10-27-2002, 22:51: Message edited by: Customstox ]

Customstox, Using your geometric logic them it is unnecessary to use a scope level. If the human eye can see a 5 degree tilt then just put the scope on until it looks good and go for it. And buy the way, my gun shoots 1/2" groups easily, mostly 3/8"and under[At 100yds]. These are 5 shot groups. I don't know why you have a hard time believing a custom 6BR can shoot sub 1/2" groups at 100yds, goodness sakes man ,the Benchrest shooters shoot their ppc's in groups of sub 1/4" all day long.

Rich,
My apologies. Guess who screwed up the math and guess who does have a good method. Well I am guilty of the first one and you have the second honors. Your worst case situation with a 3/8" group is an tilt angle of .9 degree. My apologies again. I should put my calculator in gear and check things before I type.

[ 10-28-2002, 06:48: Message edited by: Customstox ]

If I may interject an easy method for leveling all of this quickly and easily.
Hang a plumb-bob with a colored line off the 100yd target frame.
Level the rifle on your rest using a level across the lower ring halves or bases or other best flat spot.
Line-sight the bore to your plumb-bob string, line up the scope with the plumb-bob string, tightened rings.
Attach your Scope-level and tighten.
This is fast and I believe pretty accurate. Fire-away if I have missed something