THE ACCURATERELOADING.COM GUNSMITHING FORUM


Moderators: jeffeosso
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Stock Staining
 Login/Join
 
One of Us
posted
I purchased a rather light piece of french (english) walnut that has a few lines running through it. Not real distinctive, but a hell of a lot better than ordinary factory. What stain (brand and color) might you recommend to make it a bit darker without hiding the lines in the stock?
 
Posts: 7090 | Registered: 11 January 2005Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of Bill Soverns
posted Hide Post
I just finished experimenting with the African Express finishing kit. The stain is in the finish. Its a very easy finish to apply. You can buy it at brownells I believe.
 
Posts: 1268 | Location: Newell, SD, USA | Registered: 07 December 2001Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of ramrod340
posted Hide Post
Remember any water based stain will raise the grain. I just did a stock using a wood dye I picked up at the woodworking store. It can be mixed with thinner, water or in my case alcohol. It comes as a liquid. Just add a couple drops to the alcohol. You can make the stain darker by adding more dye or just use as many coats as you want. Allowed me to blend in some off color wood. It soaked deep enough I didn't have any issues of cutting through it when I did my first filler coats of finish.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of RaySendero
posted Hide Post
I used a mix of 2/3 special dark walnut and 1/3 red oak on the stock of this old mauser. Granted its not as good of wood as you describee but think it will bring out the grain very well. You can adjust the degree of darking by how long you leave the stain on before wiping it.



________
Ray
 
Posts: 1786 | Registered: 10 November 2004Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by ramrod340:
Remember any water based stain will raise the grain. I just did a stock using a wood dye I picked up at the woodworking store. It can be mixed with thinner, water or in my case alcohol. It comes as a liquid. Just add a couple drops to the alcohol. You can make the stain darker by adding more dye or just use as many coats as you want. Allowed me to blend in some off color wood. It soaked deep enough I didn't have any issues of cutting through it when I did my first filler coats of finish.


Ditto on the alcohol stains. Works good on
lighter laminated stocks too.
 
Posts: 1610 | Location: Shelby, Ohio | Registered: 03 November 2005Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of xs headspace
posted Hide Post
Just remember to raise the grain BEFORE staining. If you don't the little hairy bastards will pop up the first time your hands sweat, or hunting in the rain. You wipe the stock down with a damp rag, and hold it over a medium hot stove burner, rolling it around quickly, to evaporate the water in about 20 seconds. Then scrub off the little hairs that pop up with 320 grit fresh paper. Do this three times. Then stain, fill the grain and finish. Steel wool will leave steel strands stuck in the grain-NG. Forget about the hardware store stain-the pigment hides the highlights of the wood. The dye stains in alcohol are good-start diluted, its easier to put on more than take it off.


Hippie redneck geezer
 
Posts: 209 | Registered: 24 August 2005Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of xs headspace
posted Hide Post
PS- I like a mix of 3/4 walnut, 1/4 mahogany dye, to get that reddish classic look that used to come from red alkanet dye in linseed oil. Polyurethane is much more waterproof and durable than linseed-just rub the gloss off the final coat of poly with oooo steel wool, and then wax for a nice rubbed finish.


Hippie redneck geezer
 
Posts: 209 | Registered: 24 August 2005Reply With Quote
  Powered by Social Strata  
 


Copyright December 1997-2023 Accuratereloading.com


Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia