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Hi and thanks in advance, I picked up a Remington 700 BDL made in the 1980's 30-06....The rifle was my father in laws and he probably fired about 40 rounds through it in total. It is in beautiful shape. I want to use it for a custom 6.5-06. I will only be using the action from the rifle, the stock and barrel will be replaced. He had the rifle standing muzzle up and oil gummed up in the bolt, what is happening is when you dry fire the gun there is a slight delay before the firing pin releases. This happens intermittently. It is not bad but certainly not normal. Can I spray brake cleaner into the firing pin hole and flush it out? Or can I submerge the entire bolt in penetrating oil or something along that order and just keep working the bolt? I was considering taking it all apart as a last resort, since I don't have the proper tools. Thanks Frank D | ||
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Soaking in penetrating oil or brake cleaner would probably work but it would be much better to take the bolt apart and degrease, degunk,debur, and then relube properly. Brownells sells a combo tool for Rem and Ruger that works well in taking bolts apart. A gunsmith would do the job for very little if you don't want to buy a tool. Plateau Hunter | |||
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Frank, I would sure be interested in buying the take off BDL stock if you want to get rid of it. | |||
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Frank it is really not to difficult to disassemble the bolt yourself. Basically, all you need to do is to unscrew the bolt shroud and everything will come out. To begin you will need to compress the firning pin spring by holding back the sear. I use a square-shanked screw driver under the sear. I hold the screwdriver with my index and middle fingers as I grip the bolt squeezing the screwdriver's shank and pulling the sear rearward as I unscrew the shroud. After a few turns you can release the pressure on the screwdriver and unscrew the shroud. To re-assemble, screw the shroud on until it stops then use the screwdriver again for the last few turns. If you are really unsure of how far to screw the shroud back on, count the revolutions as you unscrew it. | |||
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One of Us |
An when you screw it back in, make sure you go all the way in and then back off untill it lines up with the notch. I had a guy come in to the shop a while back who said his firing pin must be broke. WHen I took it apart, I realized he had turned it in one turn too short. Jim | |||
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Thanks guys, I'll give it a try. Frank D | |||
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I was re-reading through the posts again... I have a question for Mr.Belk, you stated a point that the trigger/sear could also be an issue. Can I flush that out with brake cleaner and then re-lube it without totally dissembling it? Once again thanks for all the replies Frank D [ 02-11-2003, 18:28: Message edited by: frank d ] | |||
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<JBelk> |
Frank d--- You can certainly flush out the trigger housing with solvent or brake clean but there's NO way to be sure it's clean without a complete dissassembly. The joint between the trigger and connector cannot be cleaned from the outside. Since it is this joint that causes all the problems in Remington triggers, the best thing you can do is take it to a gunsmith and have him dissassemble it and clean it. The ONLY lubrication should be the lightest of wipes with a fine oil (ATF) and a dry lube such as Dri Slide (Moly disulphide). | ||
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Thanks Jack for all your time. I will try the bolt disassembly and give the trigger a shot with the brake cleaner to see what happens. There is a local guy I can bring it to if the situation doesn't improve. My father-in-law had the rifle sitting for many years well oiled but never fired. Best Wishes Frank D | |||
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frank d - At least your father in law must like you. Mine has sold, so far, to OTHER people: a 50's era Winchester Model 12 shotgun (for $35.00, no, that's not a misprint) and 1 Winchester Model 88, 308 (for $150.00). He told me years ago that he'd get me for taking his best daughter. I thought he meant physical pain, not emotional. R-WEST | |||
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Actually it was the mother in law, she wanted him to "sell it" he doesn't shoot anymore!!!!!!! | |||
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