Gentlemen,
I just bought a vintage Rigby that started life in 1905 as a .350 but has since been re- chambered and re-bored to .375 and has had some restoration work done by Lon Paul. I don't have it in hand yet.
What would be the most tasteful/appropriate/ convenient means of mounting a scope?
Your opinions and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

I know this is not what you asked, but you might be better off leaving the rifle as it is, assuming it has not been drilled and tapped, the bolt handle altered, and a new safety installed. I recently restored an original Rigby .350 which was built on a magnum Mauser action, as your rifle is too, probably. These rifles are not common and are worth more if not altered.

On the rifle I did, the owner insisted on H&H scope mounts as the most appropriate. They may be appropriate but are extremely expensive and parts are hard to come by in the US. Another choice is claw mounts, also expensive but about 1/2 the cost of the H&H system. The least expensive option are typical US top mounts and Talley mounts are steel and not that offensive.

In addition to drilling and tapping the receiver, the bolt handle will have to be altered or replaced to clear a reasonably low mount scope. The safety has to be changed, too.
In short, I would be hesitant to alter a 118 year old rifle built on a magnum M98 action by a renown British maker.

Roger's comments are worthwhile to consier...but then again...the rifle is no longer original anywway...?

Personally, I'd give the nod to the Schuler mounting system...the H&H system is about the same thing , just reversed , over engineered and a PIA to install

Thanks for the suggestions gentlemen.

+1 for the Schuler claw mount utilising the rear square bridge and a saddle mounted front base on the Nocks form.
https://www.dorleac-dorleac.co...t-line/luxe/?lang=en

Would the OP please clarify the SSB - SBS? Seems like a double not a bolt gun. Thanks.
CB

Single square bridge.

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Single square bridge.

yep.

Thanks metal.....and for that link.

Metal's reommenation is very appropriate..NECG sells and installs Suhler mounts as does Lee Le Bas of Minden NV and a number of others here in the US

Thanks metal.

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Metal's reommenation is very appropriate..NECG sells and installs Suhler mounts as does Lee Le Bas of Minden NV and a number of others here in the US

Thanks for that information. I do like the look of the Suhler mounts.

An update:
I finally got hands on the Rigby and it is a beauty!!! it feeds like a house on fire even with short flat nosed bullets made for the .375 Winchester. But....when shooting it with 300 grain or 235 grain full power loads, after one or two shots the next round fails to come into battery. I guess recoil is causing the follower to hang up.
anyone else ever have this happen? if so, what was the cure?

I think it is Ian Clarke Engineering in the UK that makes H&H Detachable scope mounts.

As Duane mentioned, they are apparently a lot of work to fit Properly!

Sorry degoins can't help with your feed problems.

I have a nice original takedown 375H&H Belted mag by H&H on a SSB action, delivered early 1913.

Gorgeous rifles. Can you post a photo please?

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Originally posted by degoins:
An update:
I finally got hands on the Rigby and it is a beauty!!! it feeds like a house on fire even with short flat nosed bullets made for the .375 Winchester. But....when shooting it with 300 grain or 235 grain full power loads, after one or two shots the next round fails to come into battery. I guess recoil is causing the follower to hang up.
anyone else ever have this happen? if so, what was the cure?

If the follower is hanging up you should be able to see that surely. When in that condition and without touching the hung up round, can you see the follower tilted and catching on the magazine box? Using a small screw driver can you carefully push the front of the follower down to see if the round pops up at the back.
How strong is the magazine spring, try another?

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If the follower is hanging up you should be able to see that surely. When in that condition and without touching the hung up round, can you see the follower tilted and catching on the magazine box? Using a small screw driver can you carefully push the front of the follower down to see if the round pops up at the back.
How strong is the magazine spring, try another?

I could not tell where the follower was hanging up due to the cartridges being in place. I did get a new spring and tried it yesterday and it worked like a charm. I guess a little more tension was all it needed. The spring that was in was loose fitting. I still find it strange though that you could cram it full of live rounds and they'd cycle perfectly.....until I fired it.

quote:

Originally posted by degoins:

quote:

If the follower is hanging up you should be able to see that surely. When in that condition and without touching the hung up round, can you see the follower tilted and catching on the magazine box? Using a small screw driver can you carefully push the front of the follower down to see if the round pops up at the back.
How strong is the magazine spring, try another?

I could not tell where the follower was hanging up due to the cartridges being in place. I did get a new spring and tried it yesterday and it worked like a charm. I guess a little more tension was all it needed. The spring that was in was loose fitting. I still find it strange though that you could cram it full of live rounds and they'd cycle perfectly.....until I fired it.

Good that you have solved the feeding problem. The difference from feeding rounds from a magazine without firing the rifle is that when fired the rounds will move forward under recoil, especially when the magazine spring is weak/short, then can cause hang up of the follower and remaining rounds.

Good that you have solved the feeding problem. The difference from feeding rounds from a magazine without firing the rifle is that when fired the rounds will move forward under recoil, especially when the magazine spring is weak/short, then can cause hang up of the follower and remaining rounds.

That's apparently was was happening. The rifle weighs less than 8lbs so it recoil pretty good. The first loads I fired in it were some handloads I assembled with some Privi 300 grain solids. They don't have a crimping groove. Although I did crimp them, the second and especially third rounds in the mag would back way down in the case.

degoins,

Lon is a pretty savvy guy on vintage rifles. What was his take on a scope mount?

Mark

quote:

Originally posted by degoins:
Good that you have solved the feeding problem. The difference from feeding rounds from a magazine without firing the rifle is that when fired the rounds will move forward under recoil, especially when the magazine spring is weak/short, then can cause hang up of the follower and remaining rounds.

That's apparently was was happening. The rifle weighs less than 8lbs so it recoil pretty good. The first loads I fired in it were some handloads I assembled with some Privi 300 grain solids. They don't have a crimping groove. Although I did crimp them, the second and especially third rounds in the mag would back way down in the case.

Crimping bullets that have no crimping groove or cannelure can have the opposite effect to achieving good neck tension on the bullet especially if attempting a heavy crimp. If there is no groove for the case mouth to crimp into, the neck can be actually expanded slightly thus reducing the bullet grip.
A taper crimp such as used for a lot of pistol ammo that headspaces on the case mouth would be better if available for a 375.
It would also be easy enough to apply a crimping groove on bullets if you had access to a small lathe.

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Lon is a pretty savvy guy on vintage rifles. What was his take on a scope mount?

I haven't contacted him. I will do that soon.

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Crimping bullets that have no crimping groove or cannelure can have the opposite effect to achieving good neck tension on the bullet especially if attempting a heavy crimp. If there is no groove for the case mouth to crimp into, the neck can be actually expanded slightly thus reducing the bullet grip.

Thanks for that info.