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I am still on the learning curve concerning Mausers, so any info those more knowledgeable than I can provide is appreciated. A week ago at one of the better local gunshows I spied a nice looking Mauser a private collector had on his table. It was a German 98 with the following marking on the receiver ring; WAFFENFABRIK MAUSER OBERNDORF 1915. Aside from the proof marks this was the only distinctive marking on the metal I coulde see. Overall the gun was in good condition with no visible pitting above the stock but both the stock and metal finish was well worn. The gentleman was asking $275 for this specimen. Does this sound like a fair price? My intention, if I aquire the rifle in question, is soley for the action to be used for a future project. Is this a desirable variation of the 98? Or are the other variations of the 98 that are better used for a custom sporter? What is the preference3 of those who have been down this road before I? Thank in advance for any information. David Schnabel | ||
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Oberndorfs are nice -- they are low carbon steel, case- or packhardened. Other variants like the VZ-24 are alloy steel which is heat treated. The latter would probably serve you better, and could be had for ~$100 or less if you shop around. The 1909 Argentine is also nice, with hinged bottom metal; this too is a low carbon, case hardened receiver. Expect to pay ~$150 for one. Guns shows, BTW, are usually not the place to find bargain Mausers. Go to a bookstore and look in Shotgun News. Other advice: always try to see the receiver out of the stock if buying in person. I have Brazilian 1908's that look brand new from the top, with pits below the woodline; especially true of South American actions (?humidity). Good luck, [This message has been edited by Todd Getzen (edited 12-31-2001).] | |||
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Todd... Since you seem to have the "scoop" on Mausers, I'm looking at a CZ98/22 for $90. Intended use: 8mm 06. How's the steel on that model? | |||
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quote: Actually the 98/22 is a standard length action.. The 98/22 was the first rifle that the Cesks build after they received the machinery from the Germans as war repayment. The 98/22 is a 98 gew with a tangent rear site. It is same action as the vz-24 with the same level of high quality machining. Look over the rifle well before buying as all of these rifles are coming from Turkey. They manufactured there own rifles and replacement parts. I would make sure for I rife that I would be building on would have a Cesk made bolt as well | |||
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He's proud of thar WWI mauser! Way too expensive. Get one of the VZ24's that are flooding the market. Look close for pits! Especially at the wood line. ------------------ | |||
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I think the VZ-22 is less common than the VZ-24 at this point in time; from what I have heard & seen myself there is no significant difference between them. $90 is not bad if it's in decent shape. Look at it carefully, and make sure it hasn't been overpolished in the past, no crack near the thumb slot, woodline pitting, make sure the bolt slides in & out easily. Check the bolt, too, to make sure it has the guide rib -- I've read about bolts missing the guide rib, that may be late WWII models of questionable metallurgy, although I have yet to run across one. BTW, I think most standard length Mauser magazines will hold a 30-06 (bullet seating depth within reason), and most 270 rounds. Lengthening, if required, is little more than flat filing the back and/or front of the magazine. I now think that the best use for a Mauser is for 30-06 head-sized rounds -- you will lose 1 round of mag capacity, I think (3 + 1). At least I did on my '09 Arg 270, and saw the same thing with '08 Brazilian & VZ-24 magazines. Not having to do receiver, bolt face, and extensive mag modifications makes the price much more reasonable. Have fun tinkering. | |||
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Went to the store... looked at the CZ98/22... looked like it had been through multiple wars, and lost all of them. The clerk glumly acknowledged that most of his Turks looked better than what he had in the 98/22. So I decided to pass. They had Turks advertised for $45, but had sold out. Got a rain check. Last one of those cost me a lot of work, cleaning up the machine tool marks. Even so, it's tempting: $45, plus some clean up, plus $40 to get it reamed to 8mm 06, and you've got a butt-ugly but highly effective elk buster. If it turns out to be reasonbly accurate, it might be worth the expense of fixing the cosmetics and getting a scope mounted. So... thanks guys, for the input. It was a fun morning. BTW, a 3.3"" cartridge will just barely fit the 98/22 cartridge box. | |||
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Seeing this thread reminded me of a good Mauser book I bought several years ago it is The Mauser M91 Through M98 Bolt Actions A SHOP Manual By Jerry Kuhnhausen Pub. by F.Brownell and son I think Midway has them in their book section. | |||
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<8mman> |
the kuhnhausen book is a great help to any one. I have a turk in near perfect condition that I made into a 8mm-06. I love it. The vz-24 is a great action to build on also, especialy if the barrel is being changed. the turks have small ring size barrels. All mausers no mader what country they are from were made in Germany. | ||
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8mman Mausers were made in many countries in addition to Germany. Belgium, Poland, France, Czechoslovakia, Argentinia, to name a few. ------------------ | |||
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A real quick fix to lengthen the magazine box to facilitate the 30-06, .300 Win. Mag. and the rest of the 30-06 family is to take the mag assembly out, put it in a vice, and hacksaw the front corners down for 1/2". Then take a pair of pliers and bend the front portion of thr mag box forward at least 1/8". Take a dremel and remove about the same amount of the throat. This will help the feeding considerably. | |||
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<8mman> |
Bearclaw, Mausers were made FOR other countrys to their specifications by the mauser company in Germany. Some mausers were rearseniled in other country's but they are all German made. | ||
<333-OKH> |
8mman; Are you suggesting that the Turkish and Chinese and Siamese and Iranian and Swedish mausers were made by the Germans? Would love to see the research to back that up. There were many 98's made under German auspices during WW II, in a number of occupied countries. Are you referring to them? ------------------ | ||
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quote: Turkey was probably Mauserwerks biggest customer. Their original contract started in 1891, and ran into the 1930's. Although many (most?) were reworked over the years in their own arsenals. As for China, who knows? Probably peasants in a blacksmith shop. Siamese were made, at least in part by Japan, although if memory serves, some were made by Mauser. Iranians were made by Mauser. Some Swedes (the initial order) were made by Mauser, the rest by Sweden. | |||
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Some 1909 models were made in plants in Argentina -- they are stamped "Ejercito Argentino" I believe, instead of DWM. I saw one at a gunshow once. Todd | |||
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I compiled some stats on the contries that people have asked about on who produced there mauser rifles. China 14 models, 7 German, 3 Chinese, 1 Austerian, 2 CZ, 2 FN. Turkey 8 models, 5 German, 1 CZ, 2 Turkey. Siam 4 models, 2 German, 2 Japan. Sweden 3 models, 1 German, 1 Sweden, 1 both. Iran 6 models, 1 German, 1 FN, 3 CZ, 1 Iran. The Germans produced 42% of the rifle modells used these contries. Ray | |||
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quote: 8mman; | |||
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<Pfeifer> |
m1carbine, How can I tell if any of the Siam actions that I have are german? I have one apparently early Siamese action that has no extended tang which is kinda cool. I too am admittedly book poor on the subject of Mausers...but not for too much longer :-) Thanks - Jeff P | ||
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8MMan Looks like your new to the forums & I hate to see you get started off on the wrong foot here. I've been eatin, breathin, livin, Mauser 98's for the last 30 years & I'm not slowing down. My gun cabinet'S are full of them. I've run out of corners in the rooms of our home to stack them in. If I Know the answer to someone's question I will post a response. If I don't know the answer I will look it up. I don't even want to figure out how much money I have invested in Mauser books. I don't pretend to know it all, far from it. Today I'm as eager to learn anything new about Mausers as I was when I started down this path! But; what I know, I know & I was trying to help out. The combined knowledge of the folks on these forums is totally awesome! Read & learn from these guys I do. ------------------ | |||
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I used an Argentine 1909 for a 338-06 AI rifle that I built. Todd Getzen was saying that this action is case hardened. After I did all of the milling to remove the stripper clip slot, turning to clean up the bolt face, lapping the lug sufaces, welding on a new bolt handle, and hand polishing, I sent the action and bolt to be heat treated. I truley believe that the resulting action can be one of the best you can buy. Also, the stock bottom metal couldn't be better if I had designed it myself. The box can be lengthened along with the action to safely provide room for catridges based on 2.85 inch cases and an OAL of 3.70. I have done this on a standard Gew 98 for a 458 Lott. Have fun with your projects -Catter [This message has been edited by Wildcatter (edited 01-08-2002).] | |||
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David Reed, I've got a 308 built on a 1916 Obrendorf with an interarms bbl wed to it, timney hunting trigger, Fajen extra fancy stock w/ cartridge trap (caught for $111 when they went out of business) and a 3-9x tasco scope (yeah it was a real part gun). before it was even bedded it was shooting sub 1" groups. haven't shot it in a while because I haven't finished the refinishing job on the stock (plus the but pad needs to sanded down and i'm minus a belt sander). i'd say $275 isn't bad i've seen them go pretty high on the price out here on the east coast. there's my $.02 ------------------ | |||
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Wildcatter where did you send your action to be heat treated & how much did it cost & what was the turn around time? Was the action still straight (no bolt binding ) when you got it back? Thanks in advance. ------------------ | |||
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