Hi, anyone had any experience in checkering a Ruger laminated stock? Pluses, minuses,etc., etc.? I like everything about the stock, but it gets a bit slippery with sweat! Thanks.

I have a laminated stock on my .338-06. Like you, I found the smooth stock a bit slippery. I had it checkered. The only thing my smith said about it was you had to go slow because the wood density varied more than w/ a solid wood.

I checkered a Ruger Laminated stock and hope I don't do another one. They are hard to cut, the pressed in resin globs up your tools and the different wood densities are a PITA. I think anyone who has checkered one would charge double at least for the next one.......DJ

I had Kathy Forster checker two for me. She cussed the first one but had already commited to do the second. I don't think she will do another.

Go to Sherry Abraham web site listed below, she does excellent work. There is a write up about laminted stocks on her web site. She has done several jobs for me. I am well pleased.

www.CHECKERING.com

Thanks for the input guys, I get the feeling that it may be cheaper/more practical to just buy new stock, OR I could take up a suggestion from a mate of mine - get some of those sticky things that you stick to the bottom of baths to stop people slipping!! I might have to investigate that - the rifle's for hunting, not a looking at, so I don't care how it looks. If these thngs aren't too rough, they might just do the job!!

i have several sets of pacmyre rifle sets, if you are interested i'll cut you a deal

Guys,

I had problems finding anyone the checker one these stocks, at least someone who'd done one before. I gave up and started using skateboard tape that I cut to shape. It feels real rough but will not take off your skin as it's not REALLY the gritty sandpaper it feels like. I've used it on some big guys up to 458 Win. Mag and haven't (yet?) lost any skin, good stuff and cheap. About $15 will do roughly 23 rifles (give or take).

510wells

BTW: I does look chintzy, but it works. You milage my vary!

I have mine stippled. It works and is cheaper than checkering.

Geo.....Good idea, I might have to try that myself. Thanks....DJ

I'll have to agree with DJ here. I didn't like the slippery feel of my custom 223 MiniX (on my web site)and decided to checker it. Lots of time spent fixing the broken diamonds after second pass with my electric carbide tool. The wood is very brittle and glue's too hard. If you want to checker it your self, don't do it as a first project. I would highly recommend a power tool with carbide cutter. If you have someone checker and don't mind some broken diamonds then tell them not to spend the time "money" fixing them. The next stock I did with my electric tool was a mess of burned spots and I had to turn the speed way down and spend more time with hand tools because the lamanite dulled my carbide cutter. recommend sharpening cutter after every laminate, or maybe turning my speed down. Lack of speed rips more diamonds though.

I'm not looking forward to the next laminate checkering job and will price accordingly!

gunmaker
http://users.elknet.net/chico

Folks, thanks for all your input - it seems checkering ain't the way to go, and Tom_ga_?? thank you for your offer - however, I'm located in Australia, cost would probably be prohibitive, let alone taking our import stuff inro consideration. As it happens, I might have stumbled upon a solution - last weekend, I went hunting, and put camo tape on the gun - instant grip!!! Not ideal, and it took a fair bit of cleaning to get the adhesive off the rifle, but it worked, cleaning wasn't too onerous, I'm a happy camper!! Until I can afford a new stock, I'll just keep putting the tape on! Thanks again for all your help.

I'm a bit late on the dialogue here, but I've had an idea about how to deal with this. The idea is to create some "sandy finish" and paint it on the stock where you would normally have checkering. Needless to say, you'd want to do a few test runs on scrap lumber to make sure it works as needed and isn't asesthetically repulsive.

Make some paper stencils to wrap around the stock and tape them on, to get a nice symmetric and clean application. Assuming the stock is finished with a clear epoxy, mix up a very small batch of similar finishing epoxy and some fine powdered abrasive. Paint the glop on with a small disposable paintbrush, maybe go for two or three coats.

For epoxy, you could even use Acraglas. If its finished with urethane, I figure using urethane from the hardware store would be best.

If you wanted to remove the stuff, I believe it would sand off without too much trouble (again, a little testing would be wise on this point).