I found a source of some really magnificient stock blanks at a fair price. The only problem is, they're all green. What is the best method for drying the blanks so they'll be suitable for working into a stock, or are there sources out there that will dry a blank for you?

I have to say, first one finds the wood, then one cuts the wood, then one dries the wood, then one grades the wood, then and only then does one cut the wood into a stock blank (or any other thing one wants the wood to resemble when finished.
Many times blanks are cut and allowed to air dry over time (the more time the better).

LouisB

Mike--

Be sure both ends of the blank are sealed with wax or asphaltum. Scew a eyelet screw in the end and hang it on the wall.

My shop stays between 40 and 55% reletive humididty and stock blanks are dried for at least seven years before cutting.

Weigh the blank every six months or so and keep a chart right on the blank. You'll see when it stabalizes.

At least 7 years I guess that puts the skids to my buying "green" blanks. Hell, I might not live that long. OK, who sells good dried blanks?

I have used some blanks at 3 to 4 years after they were cut. I live where the humidity is low. Like Jack said, weight them until they are stable.

Check gunlist or look at http://www.dressels.com or check with Don Cantwell or Jim Preslik in Chico California. Chico has a slug of wood cutters. And they cut them into blanks as soon as they can. You have to cut it into blanks to be able to grade see it and grade it. The also get rid of the extraneous wood in that manner. They dry theirs by air in Chico and the wood is stacked horizontally with small pieces of wood separating the blanks. Areas with higher humidity will dry them in a room with a dehumidifier. No one with good sense uses a kiln on gunstock lumber. The ends are coated as Jack said and areas of high figure such as a feathered crotch are also coated. Elmers glue works also.

You can see the weight log that Jack mentioned on the edge of the blank that is roughly in the middle of the photo. That blank has been stable for over 2 years. I might add that it was supposed to be dry when I got it and it wasn't.



[ 12-28-2002, 03:16: Message edited by: Customstox ]

Mikeh416--

Depending on what you have and what you want, we may be able to make a trade.

Gees Chic watch it there by the drill press, you could get knocked in the skull if one of those eye hooks pulled out.

Todd

[ 12-28-2002, 19:37: Message edited by: Todd Getzen ]

Ok, Not knowing anything about this I have to ask. Why dont you want to use kiln dried wood?

MikeS.
Force dring wood causes the dry outside to shrink against the wet inside and this causes cracks and checks, it also causes stress in the wood that can unwind after the stock is shaped that leeds to warpping and dimentional changes.

[ 12-29-2002, 00:04: Message edited by: Kboom ]

Thanks. I can see how trying to dry the wood too quickly would lead to problems. I just thought a kiln at an appropiate temp and humidity setting would do a good job. I figured as long as you used a controlled setting and didnt rush things it would be ok. I guess that isnt the case.

Mike---

There's only ONE use for a kiln.....to dry wood faster......and fast is bad for stock blanks. End of story.

JBelk, I get it honest. I was thinking in terms of controlled conditions ie the more controlled the better. What I didnt consider was the faster part. I wasnt thinking in terms of speed. However that does bring up my next question. Is there an optimum temp and humidity setting for this type of thing? I am still thinking in terms of climate controll.