Please explain what is required to accurize a Ruger #1B rifle. Trigger etc. What accuracy can be expected from a 25-06 Ruger barrel. Fred M.

Try this link.

http://www.serveroptions.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=003869

Here is what I do when I accurize a #1. I bed the forearm to the hanger, float the barrel, re-crown the muzzle, adjust the trigger, re-place the mainspring, smoothe the safety, lap the scope rings, and adjust the quarter-rib. Generally, these rifles will shoot around 3/4" at 100yds after they've been accurized if they have a half decent barrel from the factory. This is with good handloads.

John Lewis,

Have you done any work on the Browning Low Walls? I have one in .260 that is not shooting well, but is much too beautiful a rifle to part with. Think you could help me with this?

Thanks,

John Davis

John Lewis,

Do you suggest lightening the hammer as well? If a #1 is sent to a smith I feel that the locktime should be improved as much as reasonably possible.

The new ones really need trigger work also. I agree with all the things that you listed above.

Savage99 - I routinely swiss-cheese the hammer, but I really haven't seen it make too much difference if you've replaced the mainspring with a heavier one.

How do you adjust the quarter rib? Do you need a milling machine??

Zermel,
Here is a link that might interest you and help with the #1 project:

http://www.eabco.com/HicksAccurizer1.html
http://www.eabco.com/HicksAccurizer1.html

Good Shooting'
HBB

Good luck, i had a 1A light sporter in .243, and that gun would shoot patterns, not groups. It was absolutely the biggest piece of junk i have ever owned. I hope you have better luck than i did!

cowboy - the most important thing about the quarter rib is that the back edge of it absolutely must not touch the action. You can accomplish this by grinding, but we ues the mill. Also, some of them are warped quite badly and need to be fine-tuned so they aren't binding as much when you re-install them.