A while back, about 2 months ago, I posted a note about a problem I was having with a new Clymer 30-06 reamer. I got lots of advice from many of the highly qualified people here, all of it good. Unfortunately, none of it really worked and I felt that the barrel steel was the problem as it was tough to machine. Since that time I have chambered 4 or 5 barrels with no problems (other calibers). Finally got a new 30 cal. barrel to redo the one with the chatter as it is so bad you can't resize brass fired in it. The new barrel machines very smooth. The Clymer reamer still has very aggressive chatter. This will be my last Clymer reamer. I just ordered a PTG in 30-06. I have not gone so far that I can't start over with the same barrel. Just had to vent, as this really pisses me off. My customer isn't real happy, either.........Tom

Stuff happens and a good man sorts it out. Well done!

Thanks to Jim Kobe and Dave Manson I thought I would give it one more try. I set my compound at .5 deg. and bored out the chatter. Then using the paper wrapped reamer was able to get a smooth chamber. I'm still not using that reamer again.

Thanks again to Jim, Dave and all the others that gave me pointers...........Tom

For about 25 years I used Clymer and Red something (CRS). 15 years ago I switched to PTG piloted reamers Big improvement. Also helped that I chamber through the headstock using spiders. Constant flow of 4:1 Mobilmet S-122 using Greg Tannel's through the muzzle pressure system. Didn't buy the $1200 pump he recommended. Just standard coolant pump was plenty with that coolant.

Have that Clymer reamer sharpened by someone else, there's a good chance that'll fix it. Any time I've been using a reamer and it even thought about chattering, I lean on it (increase the feed rate)(I chamber 80-100 bbls. per year). I'm chambering through the headstock in a Pratt Burnard, 6" four jaw, @ 200 RPM, muzzle flushing w/ Ridgid Dark Threading oil @35-40 PSI (more than that gets awful messy). Calculations show I could increase the RPM, I just don't think I could keep up with the feed rate manually. For what it's worth, I've had more PT&G reamers act like they wanted to chatter than any other.

I spent a good bit of time on one job correcting a taper reamer chatter problem. The job was reaming a 10 to 1 taper in a ASTM F75 Cobalt chrome orthopedic alloy.
The cure was to rough drill out as much matl as possible. Then taper ream with a right hand cut 45 degree left hand flut helix. Slow the RPM way down and increase the feed.
To find the right combination took about 15 custom reamers and 60 double ended dummy parts.
I had to figure out the heat treat cycle to anneal the test parts in a vacuum furnace to match the forging material condition. Once the optimum parameters were set the program was locked to keep the operators from messing with it because everyone thinks they have a better idea.

What I have done is a bit different but it works. I disengaged the chuck clutch. Probably won't work with a gear head lathe as the chuck might be too hard to turn by hand. Move the reamer into the chamber & lock down the tail stock. Turn the chuck by hand using plenty of cutting oil & SLOWLY feed the tailstock quill a few thousands at a time until the chatter is removed. Then start reaming again as usual.

Not a question of Clymers being dull. I retired every one of them years ago. Thought about having them reground for a pilot bushing or selling them.

Used the dark oil for years. Too messy and smelly for me. Mobilmet S-122 allows me to run much faster feed and speed without heat expanding chamber or reamer.

However any of us decide to get the job done the proof is in a three shot group at the range

quote:

Originally posted by D Humbarger:
What I have done is a bit different but it works. I disengaged the chuck clutch. Probably won't work with a gear head lathe as the chuck might be too hard to turn by hand. Move the reamer into the chamber & lock down the tail stock. Turn the chuck by hand using plenty of cutting oil & SLOWLY feed the tailstock quill a few thousands at a time until the chatter is removed. Then start reaming again as usual.

Once I get within a few thousand I put lathe in neutral and hand turn to final headspace.

quote:

Originally posted by wallyw:
Not a question of Clymers being dull.

I wasn't even thinking about 'sharpness' , I was more concerned with the relief angle. Clearance angle, while not impossible to change, would be quit time consuming to the point of not feasiable for the $$$ spent, but, the relief angle or 'rake' as it's sometimes called, is easily altered when sharpening on a tool and cutter grinder. Clearance and relief angle have everything to do with how a tool cuts. Too much clearance or relief and the cutting edge becomes weak. Not enough clearance or relief and the tool may rub instead of cut. Slight changes in the relief angle can cure lots of different problems with how a tool is cutting, including chatter, be it a reamer, a turning tool, a form tool, a tap or a drill bit. Like I stated before, you'd might as well pay for another reamer as change the clearance angle. Clearance angle is ahead or below the cutting edge, the relief is behind the cutting edge.

Exactly why I've been buying PTG for last 15 years or so

quote:

Originally posted by Tapper2:
Thanks to Jim Kobe and Dave Manson I thought I would give it one more try. I set my compound at .5 deg. and bored out the chatter. Then using the paper wrapped reamer was able to get a smooth chamber. I'm still not using that reamer again.

Thanks again to Jim, Dave and all the others that gave me pointers...........Tom

Dave Manson is, without a doubt, the most helpful and generous person I have purchased from. I'm just a hobbyist, but I will ALWAYS look to buy from Dave first. I would encourage others to do so also.

Dave Manson is a class act!

quote:

Originally posted by JBrown:

quote:

Originally posted by Tapper2:
Thanks to Jim Kobe and Dave Manson I thought I would give it one more try. I set my compound at .5 deg. and bored out the chatter. Then using the paper wrapped reamer was able to get a smooth chamber. I'm still not using that reamer again.

Thanks again to Jim, Dave and all the others that gave me pointers...........Tom

Dave Manson is, without a doubt, the most helpful and generous person I have purchased from. I'm just a hobbyist, but I will ALWAYS look to buy from Dave first. I would encourage others to do so also.

Dave Manson is a class act!

A BIG YES! Mansons' tools are first class. At last count I have 65 chambering reamers in THE tool drawer. 55+ of those are Manson made. I never have any problems with those, only the other makers, who I avoid now.

quote:

Originally posted by wallyw:

quote:

Originally posted by D Humbarger:
What I have done is a bit different but it works. I disengaged the chuck clutch. Probably won't work with a gear head lathe as the chuck might be too hard to turn by hand. Move the reamer into the chamber & lock down the tail stock. Turn the chuck by hand using plenty of cutting oil & SLOWLY feed the tailstock quill a few thousands at a time until the chatter is removed. Then start reaming again as usual.

Once I get within a few thousand I put lathe in neutral and hand turn to final headspace.

Had one a few years ago chatter its ass off (Clymer) and called various barrel makers telling them it was their barrel, what should I do. Most clamed up and had no answers but the better barrel makers said to use a lot of force to get past the chatter. Well I laid hard on the tail stock feed and it worked out fine. I also use the high sulfur Rigid cutting fluid and like using it. I don't think I've bought a Clymer reamer after that.