Mauser safety help-

09 April 2020, 05:47

bt8897

Mauser safety help-

First of all let me say I am not a gunsmith.

I bought a sporterized Mauser that has a two position safety installed that is difficult to engage and gritty. From what I can tell the safety lever has cut a groove into the cocking piece which is causing the resistance. I dont have anmother mauser to compare it to.

Has the safety been installed incorrectly or is there a solution to this. I tried filing the groove smooth but the lever continues to cut a new groove when reinstalled.

Couldnt get it to show up in the pics as well as it does to the naked eye-

09 April 2020, 06:55

tsturm

Bubba has tried to fix it. You need to start with a different cocking piece.

09 April 2020, 07:29

dpcd

And bubba is a moron.
What kind of two position safety? Wisner, Buhler?
The worse thing that can happen is that if you pull the trigger with the safety on, and there is not enough clearance, the cocking piece will not allow the trigger to reset; when you take the safety off, it will fire.
The cocking piece should be angled, not cut like yours is. Doesn't mean it can't be fixed; it means that someone who knows has to fit it. Even if you get a new one, same thing.

09 April 2020, 19:26

bt8897

The safety is a Wisner type, dont know if it is actually Wisner. The safety works correctly as it is just gritty. I noticed a burr on the safety lever that is causing the groove and polished it with a little sand paper which help a great deal.

Probabaly take it to a gunsmith to have it addressed properly, a safety isnt somethig I want to worry about

09 April 2020, 19:41

jeffeosso

wow.. just ... wow

looks like it was "milled" with a deathwheel ... the 4.5" cutoff wheel

09 April 2020, 21:28

dpcd

Ok, good; if it is a Wisner, your guy remove the metal from the wrong place. Simple fix. IF you know where to grind. Make sure it passes the re-set test.

10 April 2020, 02:24

JTEX

Can one of you show a photo of one done correctly?

I do mine pretty much the same way......the finish is quite a bit better though and I put a bit of radius on the ends of the cut....

10 April 2020, 03:10

dpcd

I don't make that step cut; I use a belt sander and make an angle. No need for a step. And yes, smooth.
If you black the camming surface you will see where it needs to be removed. Before you install the spring; fit it that way first.

10 April 2020, 03:21

J Wisner

A couple of things.

IF and this is a big IF, all the parts were mismatched, then sometimes you have to trim the face of the cocking piece back a BIT.
The worst I ever had to do was a Yugo M24 that the bolt, firing pin and cocking piece was replaced and a new trigger.
I had to surface about .015" off that area of the cocking piece to allow the safety to work properly with the replaced cocking piece

This cocking piece appears to have more than that taken off.

Also we know nothing about the trigger set up, the bolt set up or WHO machined the sleeve for the safety lever.

The further to the rear the pivot hole is in the sleeve, then this can happen and is required to make the parts all time together properly.

This cocking piece seems to have had enough metal removed that the surface is now down to the softer inner core and then YES if not lubed then the moving harder safety lever can and will gall on the softer face section of the cocking piece.

The main question is, when the safety is moved to the rear, just how much is the cocking piece moved rearward ??

It should be from .020" to .030" and then when the safety is ON the trigger/sear has a gap between the sear face of the trigger and the face of the cocking piece.
If not enough gap between the two surfaces when the safety is on, then accidents can and will happen.

If the cocking piece is functioning properly but has that soft inner core exposed, then it could be spot surface case hardened to stop the galling of the safety lever.

J Wisner

10 April 2020, 18:26

Jim Kobe

Thanks Jim. That about what I told the guy in a PM

10 April 2020, 22:23

custombolt

That looks to be over-machined as I've seen in the past. Jim Wisner said it best as highlighted in his post below.
Plus, do the following tests to make 100% certain that this gun is safe to carry before the gritty issue is addressed.

Check #1 - If your cocking piece tilts upward at the rear as the bolt is closed, then the inside grooves are worn.

Check #2 - Cycle an empty fired case into the chamber. Put the safety on. Depress the trigger to simulate firing at a target or animal and forgetting to take the safety off. Then turn the safety lever to the fire position.
Does the firing pin fire?

Either failed check is reason to start over with a like new cocking piece of the same type/shape. Expert fitting recommended.

quote:
Originally posted by J Wisner:
A couple of things.

IF and this is a big IF, all the parts were mismatched, then sometimes you have to trim the face of the cocking piece back a BIT.
The worst I ever had to do was a Yugo M24 that the bolt, firing pin and cocking piece was replaced and a new trigger.
I had to surface about .015" off that area of the cocking piece to allow the safety to work properly with the replaced cocking piece

This cocking piece appears to have more than that taken off.

Also we know nothing about the trigger set up, the bolt set up or WHO machined the sleeve for the safety lever.

The further to the rear the pivot hole is in the sleeve, then this can happen and is required to make the parts all time together properly.

This cocking piece seems to have had enough metal removed that the surface is now down to the softer inner core and then YES if not lubed then the moving harder safety lever can and will gall on the softer face section of the cocking piece.

The main question is, when the safety is moved to the rear, just how much is the cocking piece moved rearward ?? The main question is, when the safety is moved to the rear, just how much is the cocking piece moved rearward ??

It should be from .020" to .030" and then when the safety is ON the trigger/sear has a gap between the sear face of the trigger and the face of the cocking piece.
If not enough gap between the two surfaces when the safety is on, then accidents can and will happen.

If the cocking piece is functioning properly but has that soft inner core exposed, then it could be spot surface case hardened to stop the galling of the safety lever.

J Wisner

10 April 2020, 22:36

custombolt

Oh, one more check.
Close the bolt with the trigger depressed (empty chamber) and then check the safety lever for play inside the shroud slot.
There should be no play.
All parts must fit snugly for proper/safe operation.

10 April 2020, 22:39

Jim Kobe

quote:
Originally posted by custombolt:
That looks to be over-machined as I've seen in the past. Jim Wisner said it best as highlighted in his post below.
Plus, do the following tests to make 100% certain that this gun is safe to carry before the gritty issue is addressed.

Check #1 - If your cocking piece tilts upward at the rear as the bolt is closed, then the inside grooves are worn.

Check #2 - Cycle an empty fired case into the chamber. Put the safety on. Depress the trigger to simulate firing at a target or animal and forgetting to take the safety off. Then turn the safety lever to the fire position.
Does the firing pin fire?

Either failed check is reason to start over with a like new cocking piece of the same type/shape. Expert fitting recommended.

quote:
Originally posted by J Wisner:
A couple of things.

IF and this is a big IF, all the parts were mismatched, then sometimes you have to trim the face of the cocking piece back a BIT.
The worst I ever had to do was a Yugo M24 that the bolt, firing pin and cocking piece was replaced and a new trigger.
I had to surface about .015" off that area of the cocking piece to allow the safety to work properly with the replaced cocking piece

This cocking piece appears to have more than that taken off.

Also we know nothing about the trigger set up, the bolt set up or WHO machined the sleeve for the safety lever.

The further to the rear the pivot hole is in the sleeve, then this can happen and is required to make the parts all time together properly.

This cocking piece seems to have had enough metal removed that the surface is now down to the softer inner core and then YES if not lubed then the moving harder safety lever can and will gall on the softer face section of the cocking piece.

The main question is, when the safety is moved to the rear, just how much is the cocking piece moved rearward ?? The main question is, when the safety is moved to the rear, just how much is the cocking piece moved rearward ??

It should be from .020" to .030" and then when the safety is ON the trigger/sear has a gap between the sear face of the trigger and the face of the cocking piece.
If not enough gap between the two surfaces when the safety is on, then accidents can and will happen.

If the cocking piece is functioning properly but has that soft inner core exposed, then it could be spot surface case hardened to stop the galling of the safety lever.

J Wisner

Not necessarily true, a good idea but it can be made safe if it is not already a junk action.