What is the best way to age stock blanks, especially in a climate with a lot of humidity in the summers? hung in a closet? place in a gun safe with a de-humidifier? other?
Also, do the ends need to be sealed? with what? should the blank be coated, and with what?
any tricks to prevent checks and cracks?

Hope that it's properly kiln dried before you get it ! A wax sealant on the ends of the stock prevents absorbing moisture through the end grain where it would absorb much faster.When you make the stock finish with a waterproof finish such as polyurethane inside and out !! Moisture in the air can vary greatly from damp summer to dry winter and wood will absorb and release water .

put them in your attic.

Is a gunsafe with humidity control bewtter than the attic? less chance of cracking etc? i live by lake michigan, very humid summers, dry winters.
What wax prep for the ends?
thanks

Definitely seal the end grain immediately with melted pariffin wax, or two coats of thick poly varnish. Also, if you put them in the attic, wrap each blank with 3 or 4 layers of newspaper, to slow down the surface evaporation, especially if fancy grain is present. Plan on one year time, at least. Bring them into heated space, the second winter for final drying.

Anchor Seal is commonly used to seal the ends of wood while it is drying. One location you might want to check out is: http://www.woodnshop.com/ANCHORSEAL.htm?gclid=CKCJvbyj8pECFRQdsgodqXtRxg

Jim

There is no wrong way to dry.
In your house, garage or anywhere else is fine.
If it is a crotch you want to seal the whole crotch face as soon as it comes out of the tree.
You can seal the ends with anything, even paint. All you want to do is slow down the loss of free water from the ends of the blank.

There is a big difference between air drying a stock blank and aging a stock blank.

I have lots of aged stock blanks now, the youngest I cut in 1987. I have a couple of blanks that my Father cut in the early 60's

James Wisner
Custom Metalsmith

There are numerous " Wrong Ways " to Air Dry or Age a stock blank !. I dislike the term aging in reference to drying wood .

The " Whole Complete " objective to drying any wood is to stabilize it's motion ( shrinkage twist, warp ) as well as allowing a surface coating to be applied that will remain on the wood . The faster this is accomplished the less likely hood of problems !. How ever it needs to be a " Controlled Process " !. Rather than some random heating , cooling, drying or excessively humid conditions !.

Kiln is the fastest safest method , some types of kilns are better than others !.

For " Air Drying " air movement is essential 30-40% RH is idea in a semi enclosed atmosphere . Having the ends of the blank sealed is also crucial , as this allows equilibrium of moisture loss or free water as stated . How ever if end grain is left open it invites splitting an twisting .

Crotch burl pieces should be face sealed to minimize surface checking as these areas tend to dry at a different rate than the rest of the blank , EDGE GRAIN must be left open for water loss . A garage or workshop that doesn't expose the blank to direct Sunlight and has adequate air movement is JUST FINE !.

Don't place directly in a window , if there will be excessive humidity or less than 15% humidity leave the windows and door to the shop or closed for those days . Last but sure fire method for Air Drying is build a DRY BULB DRYING BOX !.

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

DR K,
How about putting the wood in a gunsafe with a couple of goldenrod dehumidifiers?

I think Browning likes to pour salt on thiers.