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"Finishing" a McMillan stock
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I received a stock I ordered from McMillan and overall the stock looks to be well done other than having a lot of sanding marks, scratches or whatever a person would like to call them. I was thinking of taking some 1200 sandpaper and wet sanding the stock to achieve a smoother finish. Anyone ever done this or have any tips for "smoothing" the surface of a McMillan stock. It is one of their marbled finished stocks.
 
Posts: 885 | Location: Tennessee, USA | Registered: 11 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Hey Sniper, Goes ask these guy's http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php
I think they buy every other stock McMillan makes. Somebody over there will know.

Terry


--------------------------------------------

Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Am I missing something here? A finished stock shouldn't have overt scratches on the surface. I don't know about that particular stock; is the marbling in the resin and you have to clear-coat it?

I always painted mine and used 3M auto body putty in the tube to fill pores and scratch marks rather than sanding too deep and cutting glass fibers. If this pattern is in your gel coat, I'd go real slow and be careful. Sometimes you can sand right through it way too easily.

You can build up a clear coat the same way you build up finish on a wood stock and that would smooth the surface. Just keep applying coats and sand them back with 600 grit until the surface is even, then put a final coat on and either leave it or knock the shine down with the grit of your choice.


"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
 
Posts: 11142 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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1200 is WAAAAAAAY too fine for finishing off a McMillan stock. Start with 400 Wet/Dry and wet sand lightly to remove the scratches. After you have an even finish, move to 600 and wet sand some more.

If you really want a high luster, wax it with some auto wax when you're done.
 
Posts: 876 | Registered: 09 June 2005Reply With Quote
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I polish them on the buffer. Gives a high shine to those "gaudy BR rifles".
 
Posts: 868 | Location: maryland | Registered: 25 July 2004Reply With Quote
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Water. Oil will make a mess and maybe attack the finish. Different grades of grit will make different effects on clear coat from pretty ugly to highly polished if you go fine enough. If you like punishment and are looking for the highest gloss, pick up a plexi-glass scratch repair kit from 3M. It will take a poly finish to mirror-bright. It can usually be found on any web site that sells equipment/supplies for the experimental aircraft industry. It's used to freshen-up plex-glass canopies and windscreens.


"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
 
Posts: 11142 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Or you can send it to Rick Bin at the 24 hour campground forum. He paints most of what he sells and has examples on line. Plus he will sell you the same stock $40 cheaper than McMillan. I currently have two on order thru him.


My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost.
 
Posts: 6644 | Location: Wasilla, Alaska | Registered: 22 February 2005Reply With Quote
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Painting is probably the only way Mcmillan stocks will look truly finished. I love their stocks but the molded in colors look bad because you can usually see the seams and imperfections. I think Mcmillian (to their credit) even states this.
 
Posts: 210 | Location: NW Wyoming | Registered: 20 February 2003Reply With Quote
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