Ordered a bare bolt to mess with a bolt extension for my bullpup chassis.

Testing is going well but I'm real sick of pushing brass out with a cleaning rod

What all parts do I need to have a functioning bolt?

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Extractor (Magnum, standard or 223)
Extractor rivet (If needed. There are 2 types of extractors. Riveted or rivetless)
Ejector plunger
Ejector spring
Ejector pin

SAKO kit :-)

Ejector plunger
Ejector spring
Ejector pin

Is riveted or rivotless a choice? Any preference, or why?

Sako kit is tempting, what modifications are needed to install?

If your bolt has a hole in the side of the nose then it needs a rivet type. You'll also need the firing pin assembly, obviously. The sako or M16 style extractors require machining on the bolt:

http://www.davidtubb.com/index...d/free&download_id=1

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com...ngton-700-extractors

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com...g%20instructions.pdf

If you do the conversion, and keep the same bolt face, then there's a pocket in there that needs to be filled. I've seen people use epoxy, or machine it out and solder in a steel ring. If you start with a 223 bolt and open it up then it is usually not a problem.

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I outlined the installation of the Sako extractors here.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...043/m/8671075902/p/3

Despite what many say, the Sako or M16 extractor does not really offer any advantage to extraction. They are camming style extractors and when they meet a stuck case they will and often do simply cam off the rim. The Remington extractor, like the Savage 110 and post 64 Winchester model 70 are sheering type extractors. When met with an immovable cartridge case the top of the extractor presses against the top of its retaining lip which jams it and prevents it from moving. The extractor either cuts a chunk out of the case rim, breaks the extractor or tears away the retaining lip on the bolt. In 99.9999% of the cases, the case rim is the weak link and fails.

The one advantage that the Sako style extractor has over the others is it's butter smooth and almost undetectable closing force. Due to the nature of it's design, it takes far less force to cam the extractor over the rim of the case on closing. Improperly installed and deburred the Remington extractors can take a great deal of force to cam over the rim. The M16 extractors sometimes require a bit of creative manipulation to get them working smoothly too.

Be careful when making the cuts for the Sako extractor. There are a million variants of it. Measure and work from the actual extractor you plan to use or the drawings that it comes with. Not a random set of drawings out of a book or off the internet. Any first year machinist should be able to measure up an extractor and tell if the drawings he has are correct or not.

Thanks guys, really appreciated.

Going to stick with a standard extractor for now. With my bolt extension, I want as much force on it as possible to actually try and cause problems, if they would happen to occur.

Reason being I'd rather something break on me in testing than a consumer later. Sounds like a Sako extractor is something I need to put on after testing though if it makes bolt closing easier!