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I'm refinishing my old m-98 Sauer sporter. Ray Atkinson repaired a few chips (thanks again, Ray!) and I've started refinishing. Hoping to make a silk purse from an original but pretty rough stock. The checkering is flat topped, rather than diamond, don't know from wear or just how it was done in 1910. Question: should I leave well enough alone or refresh the checkering myself. No way would I do checkering from scratch, but it looks like following the old lines would be relatively easy. How risky is it for an amateur? What tools should I use? Brownells advertises a triangular file used for cleaning up old checkering. Is this the way to go? Your help is appreciated. Bob | ||
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| One of Us |
Bob, It is relatively easy to do with the lines in place. English checkering used a flat topped diamond and that is what you may have. My advice is to get a finishing cutter, in fine, 90 degree and mount it on a Full view handle and so that the cutter cuts on the pull. Start against the border and pull down. Dont try to get it full depth with the first cut. You will end up going over it probably 3 or 4 times. To cut to the bottom border turn the stock around and pull back from there. You will do this without a cradle as it isnt feasible to get one for one job. Remember that you have to turn the stock so that the cutter is 90 degrees to the surface. Don't press too hard and enjoy yourself. Take your time. Chic | |||
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In addition to the previous, you need a checkering cradle. Must have!! I have checkered maybe 50 stocks and freshed out another 50. I am not as experienced as some of these guys. I have tried several times to finish the diamonds in my lap. Could never make it work. Maybe the guys who have done 500 stocks can make it work, not me! I need all the help I can get. Just make a cradle. It doesn't need to be pretty or expensive. Hold it in your bench vice. Ahh, here is and idea. Put tape around the barrel to protect it. Grab in your vice using protective wooden blocks. For a one time thing that may work. I personally swivel the stock along it's long axis as I move the tool. The tool needs to stay 90 degrees to the work. This is the best way for me. Finally, use a bronze sued brush to burnish the diamonds and remove general fuzz. Change your cutter if it seems to get dull. It must be sharp, otherwise you will jump out of the line.
quote: [This message has been edited by scot (edited 04-18-2002).] | |||
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| One of Us |
Scot, I have an old friend named Bill McGuire who discarded his cradle early in his career. He was a marvel to watch. I have tried it in my hands or on a bar stool like he did and it was not very hard, just slow. He even did an electric cutter this way. He was one of the original owners of Dembart and used one of their tools. It certainly would be easier with a cradle. I may not have that good a grasp of the difficulty of learning to checker and doing a good job at the same time as doing it without a cradle and you probably make a good point. Chic | |||
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quote: Huh? Please lay off the physics problems Chic! | |||
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Bob, Yes that is flat top checkering... ------------------ | |||
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