I ran into an issue installing a LaPour three position safety on a 1917 Enfield that has me puzzled. I drilled the hole in the back of the bolt for the bolt lock plunger, then screwed the shroud on the bolt to check for proper alignment of the hole and function. I left the cocking piece, firing pin and spring out of it as I wanted to isolate just that feature.

Anyway, it lined up perfectly, and the bolt cycled just fine as I was checking to make sure the spring loaded ball dropped into the detent formed by the hole to keep the shroud in position with the bolt opened. At that point I decided to install the small retaining pin that keeps the safety lever in place. Rather than remove the bolt and/or safety and have to put them in a vise for this, I elected to keep the rifle together, figuring that the mass of the rifle would help hold it steady on the bench as I tapped it into place.

Well, I had to tap a little harder than I thought to drive it in, but I didn't think it would be a problem. Now, however, the bolt will not open up all the way. I can lift it approx 80-85 degrees, but it binds when there is about 1/8 of an inch between the handle root and the left side of the rear action bridge where it would normally stop.

There is no other binding. With the bolt closed the shroud has some slight amount of play in it, and the bolt lift is normal until it gets to the end. It doesn't feel like it suddenly stops, rather that some thing is tightning up right at the end. I worked it back and forth pretty hard at first, and it seems that it loosened up a little bit, but it still won't open all the way.

Remember it is just the bolt and safety shroud, no cocking piece or any other internals. No trigger either. The only other thing possibly worth mentioning is that the receiver still has the original military safety on the side, but I'm pretty sure I tried several different positions for this to no effect, (this was two weeks ago now...) and it didn't interfere when I cycled the bolt before installing the retaining pin.

I'm at a loss to diagnose what might be the problem. Anyone have any ideas on how I might troubleshoot this further?

I think I had a similar problem, sorry to say I ended up sending it to Ed and he took care of it.

Did you leave the plunger in without the sping?

Jim

Dang... not what I was hoping for.

The plunger was installed with the spring, the safety assembly is complete.

The only other thing I could think of is to beat it open. If there are witness marks I would know whats binding and I could stone or file to fit. Maybe the inside of the pin is catching on something and this will shear it off???

Have you thought to remove the pin you drove in and the detent assembly? You indicated it was working before.

You cannot remove the pin if the cocking piece is in place; no where for it to go.

After thinking on this a while, it may be over rotated and the bolt stop may be binding. Still best to send it to Lapour.

The cocking piece is not in place. I will look this evening and see if I can drive it through.

If you have the plunger pin that locks the bolt down installed, then I'd bet that pin is a little too long and protruding out the front of the shroud. When you open the bolt, the shroud and bolt come together and if the front of that pin is sticking out it will stop the bolt rotation. Knock that keeper pin back out and check the plunger pin for length when the safety lever is in the middle and forward position. It should only protrude out the front when the lever is in the rearward position.

I agree the lock pins are always long and you have to trim them to length. The pin may be supporting the lever better and not allow the lock pin to move back as far.

That appears to be it, thanks Bitterroot. I can see now how that gap closes up as the bolt lifts, and the plunger makes contact just at the point where you feel the drag.

I had noticed that it was a bit long, but since there was a gap and it didn't seem to interfere I figured a little extra length wouldn't hurt. As Nick noted, apparently the retaining pin took enough slop out to make it a problem where it hadn't been before.

Since I can't get the bolt out in its current state I'm thinking of using a thin Dremel cut-off wheel, (bracing my wrists and elbows to ensure a steady hand!) to carefully slice it off flush. The gap is too small for a needle file.

Any better ideas?

Ed is a good guy to deal with. Last time I had an issue I sent the whole gun to him. I would as least call him first he might have a trick.
Don

I did email Ed, and he offered a couple suggestions, one of which was correct in this case.