Hello. So I just stumbled into a 1977 Interarms Mark X in 300 WM for a decent price. The only catch is the trigger/safety. It's the original Interarms trigger and is the version with four adjustment screws. However, the safety will occasionally drop the hammer. Also, brisk bolt work will sometimes cause the striker to fall as the bolt closes (finger off the trigger). Lots of problems and I was not able to work the screws in any combination to fix the problem.

Anyhow, I was thinking of switching to a striker-blocking, Buehler-style (i.e. scope compatible) safety. So the first question is, who offers a bolt shroud cut for such a safety? Most of the aftermarket shrouds are designed for trigger block safeties.

Second question, can you suggest a good trigger? I am trying to find drop-ins, if that is possible. My own skills are pretty feeble and there's nobody I trust locally.

bmeeks - I replaced the original trigger and bolt shroud on my Mark X with a Timney and a M98 shroud. I had a smith install a PME two-position safety kit on the bolt shroud. If you don't have a local smith, Jim Kobe usually has these modified shrouds in stock. The trigger is simple to install, but should be done at the same time as the safety change to verify safety function.

Thanks for the help so far, folks. I know these are basic questions, so please bear with me. I found some sources for surplus M98 bolt shrouds. Will these work with a Mark X? Once I install that, I only need to fit a Buehler safety and a new trigger, correct? How much hand fitting is needed?

The trigger and safty is fixable as is.......

You can do about anything you want to with that action, M-70 3 pos. safty, Buehler safty, and a Blackburn, Timney or Canjar trigger, what ever... Sometimes you have to change the cocking piece but most smiths have a draw full of those....

If you have not done this before then have a gunsmith do it..most requires gunsmith instalation.

The bottom of the cocking piece on a Mk X is different than a standard mauser and there may be some fitting required to make a '98 trigger work right. The difference is slight but enough to make you have to force the bolt forward against the firing spring pressure for the last 3/16ths of an inch when using a Mauser cocking piece with Mk X internals.

Sounds like any option I choose will require the ministrations of a gunsmith. What if I decide to stick with a side-safety for now? Are any of the Timney/Bold/Traister triggers a true drop-in fit? Or will they all require a gunsmith as well? Thanks again for your patience and input.

PS I know I should just go to a gunsmith but that's not so easy. Here in Northcentral Montana, good smiths just can't be found. Unless somebody here knows of one...

Buzz: That fellow north of town told me that he makes a two position shroud safety for 98s. It seemed like he charged about $100 installed. You might want to check him out.

I have a Parker hale that was doing the same thing you describe, I tried ajustments and still the same thing.
Turned out the wood was compressed and the trigger was dragging on the botton of trigger guard, did a pillar job and all was fine. Just something to check out.
mr