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Reducing Mauser Bolt Play
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Is there an accepted method to reduce the amount of play in an open 98 mauser bolt? Its not really a safety issue, since it locks up tight, but its annoying and sloppy. Thanks - John
 
Posts: 103 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: 27 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Mausers were designed to be "sloppy". Don't try to reinvent the wheel.

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there's a fine line between hobby and mental illnes

 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
beeslebubba---

Mauser did it with the receiver extension just behind the bolt handle notch. It makes it hard to shape a stock properly but does reduce side play at full open.

 
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quote:
Originally posted by Beelzebubba:
Is there an accepted method to reduce the amount of play in an open 98 mauser bolt? Its not really a safety issue, since it locks up tight, but its annoying and sloppy. Thanks - John

They have been functioning perfectly for 100+
years!! IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!!!

 
Posts: 2361 | Location: KENAI, ALASKA | Registered: 10 November 2001Reply With Quote
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That "slop" is there to prevent jams caused by mud and crude in the course of battle, it was designed as a battle rifle and that is why it is such a good canidate for dangerous game rifles.....

Every time a gunsmith improves a Mauser it seems it becomes less effeicient and purty'er.....

------------------
Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

 
Posts: 42226 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Right on, Ray. Truer words were never spoken.

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there's a fine line between hobby and mental illnes

 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the replies. I think this gun has more play in the bolt than intended. When fully open it moves 3/8" up and down and 1/2" side to side. As the bolt slides into battery, the front lug glances off the front of the thumb cut-out and the nose of the bolt glances off the back edge of the front ring. The rear (safety lug?) also glances off the edge where the receiver meets the tang, just behind the bolt handle cutout. Despite all this, the gun never jams. If I push the bolt downward at the front of the rear ring, it doesn't hit anything and feels much smoother.

While I agree in principle with what you are saying about looseness and reliability, how do you justify installing complicated triggers, hinged floorplates and glass optics? Something to think about. - John

[This message has been edited by Beelzebubba (edited 05-20-2002).]

 
Posts: 103 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: 27 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Beelzebubba

Is your 98 Mauser a Turkish version?

I have seen some that had noticeably sloppy bolt fit, some so bad that the left locking lug banged on the thumb slot and sometimes jammed the bolt.

If so get yourself a VZ24, 98/22 BRNO, 1909 Argentine, etc, etc and you will notice a much better fit and workmanship.

 
Posts: 1551 | Location: North Texas | Registered: 11 February 2001Reply With Quote
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There's an old saying that has been around for quite some time and it goes like this: Brits build battle rifles, Americans build target rifles, and the Germans build hunting rifles. Don't expect benchrest accuracy from Mauser actions. It's possible but not probable.

------------------
there's a fine line between hobby and mental illnes

 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Beelzebubba,

I am not a gunsmith nor in any way expirienced with mausers having only ever owned one so this may be a dumb statement/question but is the bolt original to the rifle? I have seen mausers which were made of "mix and match" surplus parts, and I'm wondering if this could be part of your "problem"????

Pete

 
Posts: 5684 | Location: North Wales UK | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
Beelzebubba

Sounds like to me you have a worn out M98 action. You'll need to replace the receiver and bolt with parts with tighter tolorences. A new extractor will help a little.

The differences between actions is absolutely amazing. Model 98s were NOT created equal nor have they been treated equally. There are MANY more worn out Mausers on the surplus market than there are good ones. The trick is to buy the ones that are still in good shape.

Buying used guns is a lot like buying used tires---how good was it when it was new? How much life is left in it? What's it worth now?

 
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Update: I was convinced Mr. Belk was right, but I'd already put a fair amount of work into the gun, so I took it to the range last Saturday. After zeroing the old 1.5-5 Weaver scope, It put four out of five shots into a 1" string (all touching) at 100 yards with factory ammo. The fifth shot went about 4" away, but I threw it. Last Monday I took it down to Bear Claw's for his opinion. He determined the follower had been improperly ground (probably by Kodiak Arms when they put the gun together), and that although worn, the rifle was not worn out. I ordered a milled follower from GPC a few days ago and will alter it properly myself.

The best part of this was meeting Bear Claw. He is a great guy and a talented gunsmith. We spent the better part of the day discussing rifles tools, the military, etc.

Here is a picture of the old follower. Although it didn't cause the whole problem, it contributed to it by pushing up on the bolt more than usual. - John

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[ 06-01-2002, 21:34: Message edited by: Beelzebubba ]
 
Posts: 103 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: 27 December 2001Reply With Quote
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I just recently got a couple of SOG $39.99 and a couple of $59.99 Turks. The $39.99 samples have over an inch of lateral play in the opened bolt. The $59.99 ones have a little more than half of that. Two VZ-24s and four Swedes have half of the $59.99 slop.

Mauser didn't "design" the amount of slop you are experiencing, it was worn in, in battlefield use. Fixing it won't be fixing something that ain't broke. It's "broke", and you should feel free to "fix" it.

Paul
 
Posts: 38 | Location: Wasilla, Alaska | Registered: 29 May 2002Reply With Quote
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How bout inserting some brass screws on the upper sides of the rear bridge? That may give a little help to the looseness... Other than smacking it with a hammer to reduce the diam.

Later, Just a thought.. Mauserkid
 
Posts: 297 | Location: Stevensville MT. | Registered: 21 May 2002Reply With Quote
<bongo500>
posted
Beelzebubba, you should try to contact DanielM (armero)on this forum, he uses the best system I have ever seen and I am sure he will be glad to help you. I do not know how to post a picture here(may be you can do it) and will send it directly to you. he uses 2 4mm screws
and teflon. It works. Good luck.
 
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Hello Beelzebubba , I have an M 98 with a serious bolt play , and come with the idea to made two Teflon inserts with two 4 mm screws , and it work OK , you can adjust the bolt play and you have a smooth operation of the bolt as it ride over Teflon , Bongo come to visit me last weekend and made the photos a another M98 with the Teflon guides still in the white , I have problem with my server host to insert photos , if you want I'll send to you a few photos of the finished M98
It easy to do and work great

Saludos

Daniel
 
Posts: 332 | Location: Cantabria Spain | Registered: 23 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Bill Soverns
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I have two rifles that I built on mauser actions and they both shoot in the .300 - .400 range consistantly. That may not be enough to win target rifle matches but its damn close to target rifle accuracy. I dont agree with the comment about not expecting M98 rifles to be target rifle accurate.
 
Posts: 1268 | Location: Newell, SD, USA | Registered: 07 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks bongo500 and DanielM for the picture (attached below). I'm happy with the rifle in question, since it shoots well and still functions fine, but I'm still interested in your modification for potential future projects. I had considered a similar modification, but was told the screws would wear too quickly and might bind. Since then, I've been pondering a similar modification using ball bearings in stepped holes, secured with small leaf springs. This would reduce the threat of wear and binding. I'd like other opinions and more info from you two on how the teflon screws are wearing. Thanks again - John

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Posts: 103 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: 27 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Hola John
This the picture of the base hole you see the screw and an Allen hex , the bolt don't ride over the screw , you have at least 8 mm deep threaded pit , first install a 4 mm Teflon cylinder and then install the hex screw , with the screw you adjust the compression of the Teflon over the bolt body , until the play of the bolt it’s tight enough , apply super glue to the screws , if with use the Teflon wears just a half turn of the screws and it’s tight again , I’ll e-mail more photos

Daniel
 
Posts: 332 | Location: Cantabria Spain | Registered: 23 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I'm curious what effect folks are expecting bolt movement at the rear of the receiver to have on anything? Now, if the bolt wobbled while closed, I'd have some concern maybe, but not when open.

There are several rifle designs (some .50 cal single shots come to mind) that require the bolt to be removed completely from the receiver when loading. If I remove the bolt and walk away from the rifle, does that mean I have 10 feet of excessive bolt play? [Wink]
 
Posts: 497 | Location: Lewistown, PA USA | Registered: 21 December 2000Reply With Quote
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Bill, I never said it wasn't possible, I said it wasn't probable. I have some Mauser actioned rifles that shoot very well, but bencresters they aren't and never will be.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of D Humbarger
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Guys don't overlook the fact that manipulating the
bolt axis at the rear of the bolt in the 98 (or any rifle for that matter)also affects other factors such as sear engaugement, headspace & bolt face remaining square with the
axis of the receiver. As the teflon wears the dimensions will change.
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[ 06-07-2002, 18:21: Message edited by: Bear Claw ]
 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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