Darn, that thread on "Guns You don't need" has given me the bug. I've always wanted one of these and there's usually someone selling them at one of the upcoming gun shows.

I'd better start doing some research. So,

1. The variety of model variations is bewildering. I want one from pre-WWII, 22 in. or shorter barrel, with an aperture sight (doesn't have to be original), in one of the original Savage calibers: preferably .300 Sav. but .250-3000 would be OK as well. I don't need any rare (and expensive) variant--strictly a shooter. Which model(s) am I looking for?

2. Any particular problem areas to look for? I assume the action should be tight and operate smoothly and the stock should fit solidly. But, since I am buying this purely as a shooter, what are common things I should avoid that will send me to the gunsmith?

John

John Frazer __

Try: www.savage99.com

I understand your enthusiasm. The Savage 99 is one of the finest lever guns ever devised. Mine was produced in the early 1950's in 308 Win. It functions reliably and accurately. Good luck in your search.

Robert

I've been wanting a add a vintage 99 to my modest collection. I found a 250-3000 take down last week. From the SN about 1914 manufacture. Overall condition is acceptable but, the barrel turns about 1/16 inch past center when re-installed. My question is, can a shim take this out without too large an effect on headspace. Has anyone had experience with this. many thanks

Patrick,

I hate to say it, but the shim idea sounds like a bad one to me. Is there enough room in the chamber area to turn the shoulder, re install the barrel, then re ream the chamber? Or is the barrel too light for that?

John,
What you are looking for is a Savage M-99F made in the 40's thru the 60's I belive and be sure the safty is on the lever...another option is the famous old 99EG in 300, 250-3000, 308 Win. The 308's are rare as hens teeth...

Patrick,
It depends on how loose that gun is, some time a detention ball can be installed to take up the slack and a few other options, but probably the best move is to cut a full thread off and rechamber, that way you won't disturb the barrel channal inletting if properly done.

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

Ray,

Thanks, don't remember the 99F jumping out at me. Just from perusing the Blue Book and some of the other online sources I think I want a 99EG or 99E (pre-war). I dig the pistol grip, schnabel forend look and should be able to find one in the $300s.

And, I will hold out for a .300 or .250 Savage--just seems right, somehow.

What are the triggers like on these?

John

John,
You can pick up a .300 in the Gunlist for $295 or less. A 250 will run you $500 up to $650....

Triggers are clean but a little "mushy" most of the time, but you can improve them very easily by cutting the top of the trigger sear engagement which is overly long...Some have decent triggers...

I'm not a sticklier on triggers, trigger control by the shooter is of upmost importantance and as long as I'm familiar with the trigger I can do pretty well with it, good or bad.

I was raised on bad two stage triggers..

don't get me wrong I have Blackburns on all my custom rifles but what I'm saying is one can make do...

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

Hey John, The last one I had was a 300Sav M99EG (don't remember the "G" on it, but I'll take your word for it) which I bought new in about 1972 for $66. The store was going out of business. Just a darn shame I didn't get there a bit sooner to get a few other bargains. It had the "dried chocolate milk" finish which I R&Red with some Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. That rifle had an absolutely gorgeous piece of a light hardwood hidden beneath that factory stuff.

And I did do a bit of work on my own trigger, which slicked right up. I just see no need to tolerate a poor trigger when all the triggers I've ever messed with were fairly easy to improve. If you do not feel comfortable doing it yourself, just about any Gunsmith can do it "IF" you can get him too.

My M99 only cut 8" groups with factory ammo. Years later, I was pulling the bullets on the remainder of those cartridges and found that the Production Foreman had apparently told the hourlies to use the Set-Up bullets in those 300Sav cartridges. ALL the bases on the actual bullets I pulled were different. Just pitiful!

So, if you have poor performance with factory ammo, you might be wise to try some reloads before blaming the rifle. My very first reloads cut the groups to 3" with the old Nosler 150gr Solid Base bullets and IMR-4320. I got it down to around 2" with some Load development with the same IMR-4320.

Switched to IMR-4064 and the groups went to 1"-1.5" and I was quite happy. Eventually switched over to good old 150gr & 165gr "Round Nose" bullets from Sierra and Speer. It was a real Deer smasher with those bullets.

Only other negative thing I can tell you about the M99 is that the "Action" will spring and cause short case life "IF" you load them too hot. This will cause Casehead Separations as quickly as the 3rd reload. (A Bore Brush will often push out the forward portion of the case.)

I was going to try forming 300Sav cases from Once-Fired Military cases and see how well they held up, but I traded the rifle before I got around to doing that. I believe the slightly heavier Casewall near the Casehead would be a real advantage.

Oh yes, they carry REALLY WELL in your hand. The bottom of the receiver just seemed designed perfect for my hand. I carry my rifles way more than I sling one, and that is an important consideration to me.

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Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core

Hot Core,
I suspect from your description of "hardwood" light colored stock you had one of the later 99E's as the 99EG always had dark solid walnut stocks, checkered wood, schenable forend, underlever safty, and 24" barrels with a dogknot for the rear sight...thats why you don't remember the E, my man.

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

When I was a teen I bought a used Savage 99 with the safety on the lever in 308. I got it because everything I read told of what a tackdriver the 308 was and I am left handed so it seemed the logical choice. God how I loved that rifle!! It would shoot 2.5 to 3.5 inch groups, but everything I ever shot with it never knew. It was a dream to carry in the woods and pointed like it was laser guided. I tried to make a varmit gun out of it, and disgusted with what I thought was poor performance I traded it off in a fit of what could only be called temporary insanity. Of all the guns that I have traded if I could have just one back it would be the 99. Some day I may own another Savage 99, but it will not be the same. It was truly my first love. Good luck and good shooting.

Hey Mr. Ray, Thank you! That one had something like Beech or Birch, whatever it was they used. Had a little dark streak in it which really set it off.

It also had the impressed (fake) checkering, the Safety which was down next to the lever and did not have the "cartridge count" feature.

Sold it to a buddy one time and he decided he wanted a 30-06. No problem, I bought it back, did the slicking up, stuck a brand new 4x scope on it and made a killing on the trade. The guy I traded it to really wanted it. Nice "hunting rifle" indeed.

Thanks again.

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Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core

Hot Core,
Yes, you had a late 99E...

Eterry and all,
A little known fact is the Savage M-99 is prone to glass bedding better than most any rifle I know...I have glassed perhaps a hundred or so of them and 99% shot an inch or better...

My method is the lay a very small bead of glass around the inletting of the butt stock.

I then glass the rear portion of the forend where it butts into the action. ( I scrape a small amount of clearance here for the glass)...I lay a cover of glass in the barrel channal (after lightly hogging it out) and use the forend screw to bring the wood half way up to the centerline of the barrel...simple and very effective.

Levers don't have to be inaccurate and neigher do two piece stocks, as some have stated...You just have to fix them, kinda like you would any bolt gun, hmmmmm

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com