I'm about to install a new scope on Leupold rings (no inserts), please does anyone out there know a practical way to install a scope without marring it?

For 1" diameter rings and scope, align the front and rear rings using a 1" round bar.

Then, lap the bottom of the rings, and clean them thorougly afterwards.

Finally, don't over-tighten the screws.

George

Most of the damage I see comes from the first contact with a ring half. The thing is that each ring half may be a 1" round hole but the outside corners of the ring half dig in.

I bend each side open a little and also put double stick Scotch tape on the rings. The ring will close up fine. The Talleys are the worst for that ring buggering.

I have task-specific, solid, machined aluminum bars that I purchased from Brownell's some twenty years ago that are of scope tube diameter which I use to achieve proper alignment. This eliminates a great many of the problems that lead to marred scopes. You can still get tools of this sort from Brownell's:

www.brownells.com

Next consideration: Not all scope rings are created equal. I have found that of the commercial rings, Leupold, Buehler (still available), and Talley rings provides the best fit with the least marring. Buehler rings are designed so that they may be sized to properly fit your exact scope's tube diameter.

Ruger, Millett (junk!), and Redfield rings have the potential to really mark scope tubes.

Lapping rings CAN help, but they MUST be lined up properly to begin with or your project will self-destruct. You have to know when to stop lapping, which is sooner rather than later. I had a maker of so-called 'beanfield rifles' create a custom .338 for me some fourteen years ago. He used regular Leupold bases and Leupold rings, which he lapped, and I mean REEEEEALY lapped! He not only lapped them, he lapped them into utter obsolecence. When I first tested that rifle, I experienced fliers, then notice that those lapped ring halves actually touched each other. Irritated, I removed them, installed a new set of Leupold rings with the same scope, returned to the range, and instantly the the fliers disappeared!

AD

If you're not going to lap them, then at least bevel the edges of the scope ring with some sandpaper (320or400grit). That will help minimize sharp, machined edges "cutting" into the scope finish.

I used to install lots of split rings, mostly Redfields. The point where they were split would scratch the scope. They were pinched there. As a matter of course I would spread the rings slightly. Lay the ring, open open side down on a slab of lead. Then give the ring a wack with a lead hammer. This will spread the ring slightly and eliminate the bind. Then take a small file and debur the edge of the ring at the split. When done you can lay the ring on the scope and it will drop all the way on the scope without binding at the split. You have to do this on all four ring pieces. Make sure all is clean and install your scope. No scratches and you can loosen and adjust. I gues if a guy had lots of them to do you could turn a piece a round stock the right amount over 1.000" to be used as a mandril for getting the right amount of spread.

All of the above is great advise. As added insurance, I line the ring halves with Scotch Brand 2070 Safe Release Masking tape. Haven't had a scratched tube since and the scopes stay put.

Allen Day gives good advise. You have to align them, then lap them. You don't have to scrub all the blue off to get a nice even finish.

As all of you have seen, the ring-to-scope fit is fairly good. Only a little gap on both sides. The undeniable fact is, if you line the rings with something, you are changing the inside diameter, the inside circumference, and the fit is now wrong. Granted, some of the "liners" is somewhat elastic and will squeeze out, but some not. When you tighten rings that have been lined, it is very likely you are squeezing the scope diameter. I have seen where there was a permanent dent in the tube. This does no good at all to the operating inerds within the scope.

Lap 'em, lightly dust them with some powdered resin, and just snug 'em up.

One other thought: if you run across a real bad ring/scope fit, aka Ruger rings, bed the rings with epoxy! Mount the rings and align them. Rough up the surface inside the rings, coat you scope tube (two coats) shoe polish, the apply a thin layer of epoxy in the rings. Place the scope into the ring (both halves if needed) and leave it alone over night. Be sure the epoxy doesn't get into the screw holes. A little modeling clay can prevent this. Next day, remove the rings/scope, clean the outside of the scope with bore cleaner, or something that will cut the wax. Reinstall the scope/rings. They fit like a glove now!

I too go with lapping the rings. Since I started doing this a couple of years ago I haven't had any ring marks on my scopes. Also, if you use a good Weaver style base such as their Grandslams and a ring such as a Burris Zee ring at least some misalignement issues are solved. Of course if your rifle was drilled out of alignment that is another issue.

I have two opposting pointed bars that alighn the scope, them I lap the inside of the rings just a very small amount...then on a big kicker I will paint the inside of the rings with rubber cement...After the scope is mounted I will peal off the squeezed out rubber...Never have a damaged ring when I do this...which is not always the case, so I do have a few scratched scopes, but this does not bother me a heck of a lot, I don't sweat the small stuff...

Go to Home Depot (or a store like it).

In the department with electrical tape, find the black tape marked "rubber" electrical tape.

It is about $4 to $5 dollars a roll (vs. $1 for regular tape).

Cut a piece 0.25 inches wide, and fit one piece on the top, and one piece on the bottom halves of your scope rings, right in the center.

Insert your scope and tighten down the screws.
Excess rubber will extrude out the side of the rings, which you can cut away with an Exacto knife or a scalpel.

Works great.

Garrett

Of course you could save all that and use Burris Signature rings, the best out there IMHO.

Talleys are very bad for that !! Warnes leave little or know mark in my experience thus far !!

quote:

Originally posted by bowhuntrrl:
Of course you could save all that and use Burris Signature rings, the best out there IMHO.

Hey Gustavo, I began using the Burris Signature Rings about a year after they first came out and have been very impressed with them. It actually surprises me that all the manufacturers have not switched to this design.

If you are not familiar with them, you can see the design at the Burris web site. They are the Next Generation Ring available for us today.

There are heavier and more expensive Rings available on the market that generally require Lapping and occasionally Shimming to get them to work properly. None of that is needed with the Burris Signatures.

Gustavo ,
I agree that lapping the rings and removing any burrs will help . This method is dead simple though and in my experience works without damaging the scope .
Wrap about 2 or 3 layers of teflon thread sealing tape around the scope tube . It's externally invisible as tape is narrower than the rings . Rings don't end up squeezing out the adhesive like other tapes because there isn't any . When you pull the scope back out of the rings you'll find the tape is "bonded" to the scope tube and almost unrecognisable . You can peel it off .
I discovered this when trying to find a way to stop a scope slipping in the rings on a heavy recoiling rifle . It's great for that too . You won't need to overtighten the rings with this method as the scope/ rings grip the tape quite securely .

Fellas this is so simple..

Get a 1" lapping bar (or 30mm) from Sinclair or Brownells. Install the bottom half of the rings but don't tighten the screws. Lay the lapping bar into the bottom ring halves to get the rings lined up with the bar. Now tighten the screws. A lot of the time you can go ahead and install your scope but why quit with the job half done. Get out the lapping compound and lapping bar and lap the bottom half of the rings. Doesn't take long, five minutes start to finish, in most cases. You'll never mark a scope tube again... And your scope will be mounted stress free, very desirable.

Align with bars and lap or use the best; Burris Signatures. Final answer? Yes, thats my final answer!!!

I would love to be a fly on the wall and watch/listen to the reactions from scope manufacturers reading this thread!

I have to furrow a brow at the electrical tape, double sided tape and teflon tape suggestions. I want my scopes to stay put. Teflon tape is slick, no thanks. Adhesives get gummy with heat and they turn to goo from oils and solvents. Packing a bunch of tape and such around your scope could swage the aluminum tube. Rosin might be of use but it dissolves with solvents so, no thanks on that one too. Frankly, I have never lapped any rings. I can see some value there. I also can see problems with grit getting in the rings and scratching the scope. I like the idea of buying good rings and bases and installing them per the manufacturer's instructions. On Redfields spread them a hair and deburr them if necessary I think we are making too much of a simple job. If this stuff was usefull the manufacturer would suggest it. They don't want to be bothered with returns and customer problems, it cost them money.

quote:

Originally posted by Scota4570:
I have to furrow a brow at the electrical tape, double sided tape and teflon tape suggestions. I want my scopes to stay put. Teflon tape is slick, no thanks. Adhesives get gummy with heat and they turn to goo from oils and solvents. Packing a bunch of tape and such around your scope could swage the aluminum tube. Rosin might be of use but it dissolves with solvents so, no thanks on that one too. Frankly, I have never lapped any rings. I can see some value there. I also can see problems with grit getting in the rings and scratching the scope. I like the idea of buying good rings and bases and installing them per the manufacturer's instructions. On Redfields spread them a hair and deburr them if necessary I think we are making too much of a simple job. If this stuff was usefull the manufacturer would suggest it. They don't want to be bothered with returns and customer problems, it cost them money.

My, God...a voice of sanity at last!

Thank you kind sir!!!!