I have a 30 cal barrel it's 30" finshed length and 1.350" straight tube. I'm probably going to chamber it to 300wsm for the time being, it's for my wife. I am using a 700 action and the stock will have about a 2.5" wide forend, not sure which one I'm getting yet. We want to keep it as compact as we can to use it off a bipod as well as a rest. I don't want it to be a full blown bench gun is all. I'd like her to still be able to move the gun around herself with a little less trouble...

Here's were I'm going with all this.

I was talking to Dave, my smith, and he suggested we could use basically the bottom half of a block he would mill out, a little narrower than the barrel to keep it below the edge of the forend, and screw it directly to the barrel using 8 screws(?) and use it to bed the barrel for about 9 inches. We'd float the action and the rest of the barrel and the recoil lugs will be built into the bottom of the block, using two screws in each lug through pillers. How does this sound to you guys for a stable platform? He guarantees it will shoot little holes just as if had used a full size bedding block. I'm not set on this yet, just kickin it around a bit and thought I'd bounce it off you guys in the know too. Any advice or recomendations on design, for or against, whatever I'd appreciate it. Thanks guys. Here's a pic of a drawing I started with.

Brent,

Let me see if I understand this correctly, this multi-lug block will be screwed to the first 9" of your barrel to include your actions recoil lug and then everything forward of this block and everything to the rear of this block will be floating, including the action? And the purpose of floating the action would be??

Malm

Sounds like a lot of work....Why re-invent the wheel? How about 20 pounds of lead in the stock, and mount the rifle with a bipod with wheels......That way it could be moved a little.

[ 02-01-2003, 10:11: Message edited by: CK ]

Seriously now guys, the barrel weighs 10.5 lbs and it's hanging on a remington 700, do you suggest it doesn't need a block?

There would be no recoil lug used between the barrel and reciever, the block has plenty of lug surface, don't you think? Certainly you've heard why actions are freefloated?

Brent, I've blocked several Heavy 1000 yd rifles using alum. blocks to 15" long. Both split, one-pc. and two piece blocks were used, some going into HBR McMillans and some into my all aluminum stocks. My 16.5# 6.5-284 has a 6" long, one-pc., split block and it works great. The one pc. blocks don't weigh very much, have the top beveled on both sides and look kind of nice. I'll send you some photos and weights if you email me direct. BTW, the only contact between the barreled action and the stock is the block, actions are always floated, even the big Geskes and other customs. Some smiths feel that blocks don't need to be longer than 6" but I like lots of barrel support. Your design would not take heat away in a uniform manner and would surely stress the barrel in a non-uniform manner. Holland does a v-block, bottom only, on varmint rifles but I don't know of any being used on 1000 yd. rifles.

Jay

Brent,
If a person were to do as you suggest he might just as well simply glue the barrel into the stock (this was a popular method among BR competitors in the early 70's).
Barrel bedding blocks need not be big and bulky and , as Jay said they can be quite attractive. As his are.
A sleeve glued on to the barrel is another alternative that can work well. This sleeve can be made with an extension that reaches back over the action for scope mounting purposes. Regards, Bill.

Jay,

I emailed you. Appreciate your help guys, I like the split block design, if it's not bulky. I don't like this setup I drew up for the simple reson you have to redrill mounting holes if you set the barrel back etc.

What stocks would you guys suggest for using a split block design in? Is a 2.5" to 3" wide forend ok to use with one cosidering the barrel diameter here? I like the tactical styles better than the BR types if they'd work out.

Thanks again.

Brent,
check this link http://public.fotki.com/Rbertalotto/tension_barrel_project/

maybe it might help you.
Rick

Interesting setup. 4" of bedding seems a little short though. Jay has a nice block indeed, I'll just go that route on this one. Simple, nice and clean too. Appreciate all the pics and help Jay!! I think Jay knows this stuff inside and out!

Hey Brent,

Noticed your in Alaska. I was just wondering who you have do precision gunsmithing for you? I have heard that Homer Strickland in Anchorage is good, and there is a guy named Don Feltman in Kenai who I have heard of. Just curious since I am in AK and feel disadvantaged.

Sgtdonf,

Dave Caboth at Nitro Gun Works in Wasilla has done all mine. You can reach him at 907-376-5261, ask for Dave, he's actually located in the Chimo Guns building on the west side of the Carrs mall.

I've heard Homer does good work too, although I've only met him once and spoken with him over the phone a few times. I prefer to deal with Dave as he does excellent work and is a standup guy too. He used to teach at a school outside, he said he knew Ross at Prairy Gun Works, Ross was a student there at the time.

Take care,