What's the preferred method for stripping the finish from a M77 Ruger stock, for refinishing?
Thanks.

Palm sander.

I wear out approximately 1 per year just doing recoil pads. The last two I bought were Skils and they are holding up as well as any other I've destroyed.

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Palm sander.

Thanks for the tip. So it is best not to use any chemical finish remover?

To get an even refinish you are going to need to get below the factory stain anyway. The Ruger is not a heavy plastic type like many other factory rifles. I've found it to help me to tape the checkering. Helps me keep the darn sander off of it. Reduces repair time.

Porter cable. But yes you can use a stripper. It will be easier than repairing the checkering.

Sounds like maybe a stripper and then a little sanding to be sure all the stain is removed. This stock is poorly stained. Portions of it are light and almost look like birch. It's walnut, but it would look much better stained darker.

If I did start with a stripper, what would be best?
Thanks

I always use a commercial paint/Epoxy stripper on gun stocks, get all the finish off, then sand it with 100, 220 and 320 grit, sometimes up to 400 or 600 depending..

Stripper gets the finish out of the checkering with the help of a tooth brush..Stripper save me time and effort.

I don't tape the checkering until I start applying finish..

Using this method, will the checkering need touch up?

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Originally posted by Atkinson:
I always use a commercial paint/Epoxy stripper on gun stocks, get all the finish off, then sand it with 100, 220 and 320 grit, sometimes up to 400 or 600 depending..

Stripper gets the finish out of the checkering with the help of a tooth brush..Stripper save me time and effort.

I don't tape the checkering until I start applying finish..

I don't sand the checkering. The palm sander is very controllable and you can put tape over the checkering and then hammer it in so it sticks with a stiff hair brush and then cut around the border with a small knife. I do that before I apply finish anyway to keep the new finish out. It saves recutting it.
But I'm sort of funny that way.

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I don't sand the checkering. The palm sander is very controllable and you can put tape over the checkering and then hammer it in so it sticks with a stiff hair brush and then cut around the border with a small knife. I do that before I apply finish anyway to keep the new finish out. It saves recutting it.

I don't sand mine either on purpose anyway

Exactly how I do mine.

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Originally posted by ramrod340:

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I don't sand the checkering. The palm sander is very controllable and you can put tape over the checkering and then hammer it in so it sticks with a stiff hair brush and then cut around the border with a small knife. I do that before I apply finish anyway to keep the new finish out. It saves recutting it.

I don't sand mine either on purpose anyway

Exactly how I do mine.

Na ha. But I bet you don't hammer the masking tape into the checkering with a hairbrush doyah ramrod340 ? Never tried that before didja ? Betcha yah never thought of that before didja ? Betcha! Damned masking tape sticks to the checkering like bad credit to a loan application when you hammer it in with a stiff bristle hair brush. Finish can't run underneath of the tape when yah hammer that ole masking tape in with a hairbrush dontchaknows!

he he he

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But I bet you don't hammer the masking tape into the checkering with a hairbrush doyah ramrod340

Nope use a steel or bronze brush depending on what is handy use the back side of an exacto blade to force it down along the border.

I will admit to not hammering it.

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Originally posted by ramrod340:

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But I bet you don't hammer the masking tape into the checkering with a hairbrush doyah ramrod340

Nope use a steel or bronze brush depending on what is handy use the back side of an exacto blade to force it down along the border.

I will admit to not hammering it.

A stiff bristled, hair brush. 35 years of careful, exhaustive research, scientific development and refinement of procedures have finally led to the hair brush. That's where it's at. That's where the BIG money is in gunsmithing tools Laddy ! Hair brushes.

And hammering with ! Don't forget the hammering.

Speer, I won't even comment on you and a hair brush. Have a good one. I will give it a try next time. I "might" still have one laying around.

No no Speer, a tooth brush comes in soft, med and hard..buy 3 of them, brush your teeth a lot and regulate them to the shop..They are much more accurate than a hair brush, much the same as comparing a ruler to micrometer!! No need to thank me, just helping a friend! Buenos Noches!