One of Us
| If he doesn't want a blued rifle, I would go with Cera-Kote. It is unbelievably tough stuff if applied correctly. Even a park under the Cera-Kote, even though it isn't necessary, wouldn't be a bad idea. It would be a hell of a tough finish. The nice thing about Cera-Kote is the natural lubricity of the coating. Very little if any, oil is needed to lube the bolt for proper functioning.
Stay away from Duracoat and Gun-Kote is pretty good for barrels that are going to be used for high volume of fire because it doesn't have any insulating property like the ceramic coating.
I sill would rather have a high mirror polished hot blued or even better rust blue rifle, especially if it is a Pre-64 M70. |
| | |
one of us
| quote: even better rust blue rifle
 If he wants blue and doesnt want to pay for a rust blue a cheaper option is a bead blasted blue.
As usual just my $.02
Paul K
|
| | |
One of Us
| If memory serves, a pre 64 338 is kind of a scarce commodity. Check this out and you might decide to restore it to original finish...rust blue WOULD be nicer, but not original. With restoration, great care must be taken to not "flatten out" stamping and polishing must not be overdone |
| | | Posts: 2221 | Location: Tacoma, WA | Registered: 31 October 2003 | 
IP
|
|
one of us
| Early M70's lettering was applied prior to polish. Later guns were polished prior to lettering. Your 338 would fall into raised lettering on the barrel. Not that you are trying to fake anything, but polished lettering is the first thing a collector looks at.
Roger Kehr
Kehr Engraving Company
(360)456-0831
|
| | | Posts: 1634 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002 |
IP
|
|
One of Us
| A fine bead blast, followed by an Oxpho Blue cold blue rub with a toothbrush, covered with oil and left over night, followed by a detergent scrub, followed with water rinse, followed with pat drying, followed with oil on a toothbrush, followed with wipe down with a rag, gives an excellent finish with little equipment, skill, or cost required.
Get an old $50 shotgun at the gunshow and try it first before the M70. Leave the shotgun out in the rain for a week. Bring it in a clean it up. I think you will find that the bead blast-cold blue-oil finish works much better than the factory hot blue. |
| | | Posts: 9043 | Location: on the rock | Registered: 16 July 2005 |
IP
|
|
One of Us
| quote: Originally posted by TJ:
My friend is not a collector. He couldn't care less what the collector value of the gun is. It was a gift to him from a family member and he will never sell it. He is only interested in using the gun for moose and bear without the rust getting worse. Thanks for the responses.
http://www.itdcustomgun.com/Excellent bead blast blue at a good price. |
| | | Posts: 1610 | Location: Shelby, Ohio | Registered: 03 November 2005 |
IP
|
|
One of Us
| Where do you get Cera coat? I had heard good things about Dura-coat, whats wrong with it?: quote: Originally posted by James_B:
If he doesn't want a blued rifle, I would go with Cera-Kote. It is unbelievably tough stuff if applied correctly. Even a park under the Cera-Kote, even though it isn't necessary, wouldn't be a bad idea. It would be a hell of a tough finish. The nice thing about Cera-Kote is the natural lubricity of the coating. Very little if any, oil is needed to lube the bolt for proper functioning.
Stay away from Duracoat and Gun-Kote is pretty good for barrels that are going to be used for high volume of fire because it doesn't have any insulating property like the ceramic coating.
I sill would rather have a high mirror polished hot blued or even better rust blue rifle, especially if it is a Pre-64 M70.
|
| | | Posts: 523 | Location: wisconsin | Registered: 18 June 2007 |
IP
|
|
