I have a line on a Herter's FN 98 chambered in 300 win, reasonably priced. I'd like to make a lightweight mountain rifle as I currently don't own anything elk worthy less than about 8.5 lbs. My questions are

1) How difficult would it be to buy one of the lightweight synthetic blanks (Lone Wolf, Brown, Rimrock) and inlet it for an FN without the bottom metal. I only need two down--I was thinking of making a cerro cast of the magazine and inletting this cast into the stock to preserve dimensions and using the stock follower and spring.

2) This action doesn't look like it has been opened up at all. I know the 300 will technically function in a standard FN box but it doesn't look like you could seat the bullets out where they belong like you could with a 3.6" box. It seems like the simple solution, if one was not going to use the stock bottom metal, would be to mill the rear of the action back .25 or so, between the "ears" at the rear of actions magazine mortise. Dunlop and others talk of removing metal from the feed ramp area but that seems unnecessary of you're doing without the bottom metal. Just shorten the bolt stop to function and you're off, right? Below is a pic of another FN for reference.0


Is what I'm thinking practical (given that I really enjoy hunting with Mausers and their close derivitives)?

Thanks for any tips and advice you can offer.

I've never molded in a mag box. I have built several blind boxes in synthetics blanks. I normally use a Hi-tech blank. What I do is pick up a cheap M98 guard with the stamped metal box. Then cut off the amount of the box I need and extend it if needed.

If you remove the metal in the back I would think you will need to remove metal on the bolt stop and ejector as well. Yu might also need to place a piece of metal in the front of your model magazine to keep the tips from working on the epoxy during recoil.

Thanks Ramrod, good idea re:installing a metal plate in the front of the box. I may even try a piece of high impact plastic.


Any other guidance on openening the rear of a commercial FN? Pics would be great. It just seems like the rear is the place to lengthen this particular action. Thanks again.

I have a pretty big kicker (416 Rem) with no front to the magazine box at all. At the time no aftermarket bottom metal fit the MK X long magnum so we bought some Blackburn and cut out the front. The bullet noses face nothing but cured resin and I have had no problem. 20 years and 4 different big kicker calibers later, there is no damage to this stock cut-out at all and feeding is flawless.

If you're going to the trouble to open the magazine box, make sure the reamer will give you enough throat to do it justice.

I understand being a Mauser guy but if you want a cheap light 300 Win its hard to beat the Colt Light Rifle.

The blind mag is saving you only the weight of the floorplate assembly minus the stock material and aluminum triggerguard. Two to three ounces??? Are you going to use an aluminum magazine?

You could source an all aluminum assembly...but many see them as tacky... 5 ounces.

I used a MPI classic stock (MPI has its detractors) with a FN magnum action with the mag extended and the ramp altered for loading out 338 250g. The results have been dubious at best regarding speed increase. With a 24" barrel .630 at the muzzle it goes 6.88# with a mauser floorplate.

If I did it over again I would just fork over the dough for a Kimber Montana in 300 Stubbie and not worry about a few FPS. At least it resembles a mauser...