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I need to make a loaded chamber indicator for a Sauer .32 it sits in a slot in the bolt. I have some A2 tool steel that is close to the correct thickness well almost .020 thicker. The part is not available anymore so a hand made one is the only way. The question is has anyone used this alloy for small parts? I don't see that it needs to be hardened Never rode a bull, but have shot some. NRA life member NRA LEO firearms instructor (retired) NRA Golden Eagles member | ||
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A use what you have and it well work just fine. | |||
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A2 will work just fine. No sense in not hardening and tempering to around 42-45rc. http://www.facebook.com/profil...p?id=100001646464847 A.M. Little Bespoke Gunmakers LLC 682-554-0044 Michael08TDK@yahoo.com | |||
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There might be better choices then soft A2 4140 soft would be about the same P20 soft is in the high 30's S7 is nearly 3x stronger per slightly lesser Rockwell hardness of hard A2 and is less prone to cracking at internal 90º corners H13 even better than S7 A2.......41 ft lbs @ 56/58 RC S7.......102 ft lbs @ 52/54 RC H13.....180 ft lbs @ 47/48 RC ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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What thickness and width of steel do you need ? I have lots of different thickness ( .018" to .0625" ) of 1050 - 1075 annealed strip, in various widths. Also have some 1095 annealed in ( .093" ) thickness. Still have some Blue Clock spring material as well. I can snip a peice off for you and mail. Small thin peices like that I heat to red/orange, ( 1300 + deg ) and quench in light oil, polish and temper back to bright blue ( 550 deg ) JW | |||
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+ 1 Start cutting When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years! Rod Henrickson | |||
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I would rather not have an annealed structure .A2 , being air hardening is easier to HT. Hardness in the low 40s HRC would be fine . If Ron HTs in the winter it will be more like an Oil quench ! | |||
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I recently got an extractor for my Sauer 38H from Jack First. He makes parts for obsolete guns. Here's a link - https://jack-first-gun-parts.myshopify.com/ We contend that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle. --Winston Churchill "Oh, nothing Mom, just pounding primers with a hammer ..." Politics is supposed to be the second oldest profession. I have come to realize that it bears a very close resemblance to the first. | |||
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Not a very critical part for sure a piece of alum most likely would work. Not thing to worry about just make it and go on | |||
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Its a 1913 Sauer .32 apparently there are no small parts for this one, according to the owner. Jack's did not list it. I will try the A2 then see if there is a need to harden it. There is no real stress on the piece just pushes out a pin to indicate the chamber is loaded. Those indicators make it easy for blind people to see if the gun is loaded I guess. Thanks for the feedback Never rode a bull, but have shot some. NRA life member NRA LEO firearms instructor (retired) NRA Golden Eagles member | |||
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Make it out of whatever is on hand. A2 will be fine. It is not a high wear part or an impact part. Actually if it was an impact or wear part, A2 would also be fine, just have to heat treat it in that case. Jeremy | |||
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You can have very good wear resistance with A2 but it is a poor choice for impact ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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Ted, With respect to other die steels, you are correct. No doubt there are tougher designs. Comes down to the argument between good enough, or best. Jeremy | |||
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