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| I need to see it. It could be the internal firing pin safety lugs; or not. Also, some triggers do not like to operate with military cocking pieces with steps in them; work better with solid bottom ones. Again, sometimes. |
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| dcpd, what do I need to look for when I get it apart? powdr |
| | | Posts: 309 | Location: central Texas | Registered: 25 July 2011 | 
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| Places where it is galling. Put some layout dye on anything that moves.
But really, it is hard to diagnose on the keyboard something I could look at once and see. |
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| Strip the bolt and see if the stripped bolt fails to close.  Doug Humbarger NRA Life member Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73. Yankee Station Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo. |
| | | Posts: 8350 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001 |
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| quote: Originally posted by dpcd:
Places where it is galling. Put some layout dye on anything that moves.
Aftermarket triggers sometimes work better with solid bottom cocking pieces and you have a military one with a step in it.
But really, it is hard to diagnose on the keyboard something I could look at once and see.
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| Ummmm..... that hasn't been drilled, tapped and has a too long screw in the front ring interfering with the bolt, does it?? |
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| No Doug but that's exactly what it feels like. I've had that problem and am familiar w/the feel. powdr |
| | | Posts: 309 | Location: central Texas | Registered: 25 July 2011 |
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| Well, here is what happened to me on a Mauser. I've fooled with a lot of them and never seen this. I had an extra bolt shroud laying around that I gave to a gunsmith to install a Model 70 type safety on. It had been laying around for about 15 years and I decided to use it on a project I was working on so I assembled the bolt, only to find it wouldn't close. I went over the entire bolt, took the shroud and safety apart and somehow came to the conclusion that the shank near the threads on the bolt shroud were bigger than the bolt body. Nope. Then I thought the bolt body at the rear was too big for the shroud to thread into all the way. Nope. I polished everything, not much help. I couldn't figure it out until I saw one small bright spot on the tang under the bolt. I polished the underside of the shroud and the bolt closed a little more, then a little more.....
So in the end, after I stoned the underside of the shroud enough, it closed perfectly. Just too much drag from a non-matching bolt shroud.
Might give it a look. |
| | | Posts: 1332 | Location: Western NC | Registered: 08 January 2005 |
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| I had the same tolerance issue that Magnum Hunter had. I think I stoned the tang to eliminate the drag...
What was the verdict on trying a stripped bolt? If that works, reassemble bit-by-bit until you find the part that is binding. |
| | | Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005 |
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| I'm having a Mauser man look it over as we speak. Thanks to everyone that offered assistance. I'll reply back what the problem was. powdr |
| | | Posts: 309 | Location: central Texas | Registered: 25 July 2011 |
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| Update...I sent the action to a member here and he has received it and diagnosed the problem. The bolt was mismatched and had to have the action opened for the handle to sit down in. The trigger was a problem because it needed a commercial cocking piece to operate normally. I want to thank everyone that helped w/ideas. powdr |
| | | Posts: 309 | Location: central Texas | Registered: 25 July 2011 |
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