I have been playing with my first Pre 64 Model 70 In 270. Bought it off an action site. Now that I have the cracks in the stock (that the guy said wasn't cracked) fixed what do you experts do with the screw in the barrel. Mine seems to shoot better with it turned out two full turns than if I tighen it. I've only shot a few groups both ways but group size is about half, turned out two turns. Is there a correct way to do this or just go with what works best for this gun.

My gunsmith tells me to loosen it as you have done. In some instances, it is better to take it out completely. When this is done, a "blank" screw is epoxied in place for appearances. Kudude

The barrel screw is a option so do what works.

On the three I have they do best pretty tight but others don't agree.

Pre '64 M70 Winchesters usually had very good barrels. My experience is to eliminate the forend screw and free float the barrel. Case in point: I bought a 1960 270 barreled action at a gunshow.Some "gunsmith" had started to remove the knot in the barrel. I suspect he realized that the bottom of the rear sight dovetail would remain when he struck the barrel off. The bore, as usual, was not cleaned, and looked like a sewer pipe. There it sat on his table in all it's screwed up glory, with no bottom metal. I whined, I cried, I rolled on the floor (only kicked once), finally got it for 85 bucks. Cleaned it up as best I could. Scored on a dirt cheap Ramline stock. Bottom metal, scope and mounts out of my parts collection. Could have staked a mining claim on the amount of copper I removed from the barrel. Total cost: $140.00 (rounded). Ugly as sin and too heavy 5 shots; one ragged hole at 100 yds with a 4 power scope.

I believe an accurate hunting rifle needs 3 things: a good trigger; a good barrel; and good bedding.

When I bed a M70, I file a taper on the front and two sides extending up about 1/8" from the bottom of the recoil lug. I tape the recoil lug above the filed in tapers, wax and glass bed. I also bed 1 1/2 to 2 inches of the barrel. Dave

Rock ,,I have my barrel screw backed out loose and the barrel floated on my '49 06 and it shoots sub moa.

Thanks for the information. I bedded the back of the recoil lug and back of the tang as there was no contact, also no contact on the flat behind recoil lug where the front action screw is located. I think that is why the stock cracked, seems that the only contact was the center action screw hitting the wood between mag box and trigger cut out. I didn't bed infront of recoil lug and two inches of barrel, do you think that is something I should do. Thank for the reply's Tony

In my experience, the forend screw is best left in place. My common practice with standard grade pre-64 Model 70s over the course of the last 25 years of shooting them is to just snug up the forend screw, but don't overly tighten it. 90% of the trouble anyone ever experiences with that forend screw is due to over tightening.

I always back the forend screw, then the action screws completely out, then tighten the front action screw completely tight, but before I do, I always stand the rifle on it's butt to ensure that gravity allows the recoil lug to make full contact with the recoil lug mortise of the stock. This is VERY important. Then I tighten the rear action screw completely tight. I tighten the middle screw, then back it out a quarter-turn. The forend screw is saved for last, and as I stated, it's only snugged up.

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"tighten the front action screw completely tight, but before I do, I always stand the rifle on it's butt to ensure that gravity allows the recoil lug to make full contact with the recoil lug mortise of the stock."

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You know, It has never occurred to me to do that, but it makes a helluva lot of sense.

different oflks have different opinions on recoil lug and barrel bedding. My method is to have none of the barrel touching anything, and only the rear of the recoil lug. i cover the front, sides, and bottom of the lug with 1 layer of electrical tape. I have 2 layers of wide electrical tape on the barrel to give proper clearance.

If I make a stock from a blank with no glass, then it will have full wood-to-metal contact from tang to forearm. Well, just s light relief behind th etang. You can get a rifle to shoot bedded liek this, but to be honest, it is about the worst possible way to bed a rifle. The only thing it is good for is to be able to say "my rifle has full wood-to-metal contact." Of course, most folks will have absolutely no idea what you are talking about. ut I am sure I will do more that way because I am pretty weird in a lot of ways.

If an action is properly bedded and a barrel is properly free-floated, then the forearm screw will not help you. I just take them out completely.