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New barrel, action work, 600+ I should think to have it done right and that may or may not include bottom metal. New bottom metal could get you close to a grand.

FWIW, a new barrel in 9.3x62 would get you most of the way to a 375 for a lot less money. Perhaps someone else will chime in.

OT a bit, but is a M98 standard length action long enough to comfortably handle a 375 H&H?

No; that is well discussed here; do a search.
98s have to be opened up quite a bit to get an H&H mag in them. Most designs cut away half of the lower locking surface (like FN factory did) ; I like to remove some from the rear too.
Lots of hand work involved so getting a Model 70, or even a 700 requires little work and none on the actual receiver.
If you are serious, PM me.

9.3 x 62 is relatively simple and straightforward, in my limited experience.

The 8mm is pretty close to begin with, but a 375 is a stretch.


dpcd has it absolutely right.

dpcd does an awfully nice job on his barrels. I'm impressed by the quality of the Douglas tubes.

I highly recommend a 338-06 (just for you Mike) 35 Whelen or a 9.3x62 if you want a 98 Mauser action with a bigger hole in the barrel. Just a better fit.
Save the 375s for a more suitable action.
From someone who has built a few 375 Mausers.

Holland designed the round to fit a standard length action. Yes it does indeed take a fair bit of hand work. I would never own a .375 or a .404 on anything but a standard length action, they just feel and handle so much better when built a bit lighter. My wood and blued steel rifle in action on coastal Black Bear hunt in Alaska. I know....just too much work for most folks to properly look after a rifle in such conditions. Both the rifle and I survived to hunt another day.

Buy a 375 Whitworth and save the 98 for something like 6.5x57, 7x57, etc.

And realize that a Whitworth is just a factory opened up 98 Mauser.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
And realize that a Whitworth is just a factory opened up 98 Mauser.

Yep. I have one, as it came from the factory, never molested.

Anyone need it? It is on my list to go away, I am 72 years old and do not use it anymore.

There is no doubt a standard 98 can be safely converted to 375H&H...If here is some illogical fear you may want to look over the 375 Ruger.
I believe he 375 Ruger would fly off the shelves if it had been named something like "375 Express"

quote:

Originally posted by Macs B:
Give me a ballpark idea what I'd be getting into for a basic recaliber of a German Mauser 98 in 8mm Mauser cal to 375 HH conversion. Appears to have a stock barrel and a sporter wood stock and bottom metal. I'm mot looking for a binding estimate just a good informed opinion of what such a conversion might cost me.

Could you tell us more about the 98 Mauser you plan on converting to 375 H&H? Year of manufacture, condition, etc? Is it a commercial or military action?

Unless you have some special attachment to the receiver, I would agree with others who said to go buy a 375H&H or build it on something else. I did a 257R build on a Mauser simply because my dad liberated it during WWII but probably have a grand into a $400 rifle.
BTW dpcd did some of the work and it was excellent and reasonable.

Unless you have a need for the .375 H&H, I'd consider a .30-06 based case instead.

.338-06, .35 Whelen, .375-06, .429 express.

I have all of those but the .35 Whelen. The difference between them and the .375 H&H is not great, for American game. Now, if you're talking Africa, the .375 has an edge, particularly with heavy solids.

I have an FN with a plastic stock in 376 steyer I would let go. Even have an extra set of dies and brass.
Or, once I find it, DPCD is always welcome to use my reamer to make you one. It's a great fit for a mauser, and to bad it's over looked.

I'm not shamelessly trying to peddle goods here..but you ask a valid question of( what needs to be done.) I sell a booklet ($24.00) that explains the entire process done the right way with plenty of photos.

Handloaded the 8x57 is a great rifle suited for most big game, in fact all Big Game in NA, the big bears of Alaska might be an exception to some, but I would shoot any bear with the 8x57 and the 160 TTSX...A 7x57 is another all time favorite of mine, but I wouldn't waste money going to a 7 if I had an 8mm..If that's not enough then how about a 8mm/06 or 8mm/6 IMP.thats a lot of gun..A lot depends on the size of your pocket book..

I see no problem going to a 375 Ruger or H&H if you use the right gunsmith and Duane would be as good as you could find..Ive seen many 98 Mausers converted to 375 H&H..Holland & Holland, Rigby, Weatherby at one time, most custom gun makers have recommended the 98 for the ultimate in control fed DG rifles..and for a fine using 375 the Whitworth in 375 is damn hard to beat at under $900 as a rule.

just make it into a 400 Whelen. simple straight forward and very very effective.

In the early 90's Holland contacted me to make a batch of replacement 375 H&H guards for the M98.

Seems in the late 50's they had a batch of guards made for Alumium, and then down the road they had issues with them and were replacing them with steel units as they came back into their shop for repairs.

So Holland sent me a copy of a print and a somewhat broken guard so I could make the new steel units as close to a drop in as possible.

The very first thing I found out was that Holland had moved the rear wall of the magazine box back 3 mm from a standard M98 box.

Then they had thinned up the rear wall thickness to 2.5 mm.

But in order for the bolt travel to match up with the new inner back wall position to pick up the cartidges properly, you had to remove 1 mm from the bolt stop to increase the bolt travel to properly work with this new rear magazine wall position.

Overall this allowed the magazine rear wall position to sit about 3.5 mm ( that is .138" ) toward the rear from the normal 8x57 magazine, which then keeps more metal in the lower feed ramp in the lug seat from what the 375 H&H FN actions have since FN only moved the rear wall location back 1.75 mm or .068".

A properly made magazine/guard is what is required for this M98 caliber conversion.
Just my thoughts on this long standing discussion about putting a 375 H&H on a std M98.

J Wisner
Life Member American Custom Gun Makers Guild