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I have been interested in learning to checker for a while now, was hoping somebody could give me some starting points. Like: 1. What kit to get? Bronwells has a few different ones, I figured start with the lowest number of lines per inch, that would be easiest. there are a couple of different setups they have though.... 2. Are there any books or videos on the subject that somebody could recommend to me? Thanks a lot all. Red | ||
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<JBelk> |
DR--- The best book I know of is "CHECKERING AND CARVING OF GUNSTOCKS" by Monte Kennedy. Even though it was written in the late forties the information is current except for the use of electric/air checkering heads (which save a LOT of time for most and just means the stock will be sawdust quicker if I'm running it. I've used Dembart and Gunline tools and tools I make myself......none of them seem to make me a checkerer. There have been at least to ACGG seminars on checkering.......one by Al Lind and one by Pat Taylor, but I don't see the videos listed at the ACGG web site My suggestion is to buy a right and left spacer, a couple single line deepeners and three handles and start to work on a piece of FLAT scrap STOCK wood. It does no good to checher pine or oak or toilet seats.....practice on a wood suitable for a stock. It usually takes about three acres of practice patterns before you're ready for a stock. Get started! | ||
<Kboom> |
Joe Balickie did a video titled "Gunstock Checkering" a few years back that is pretty comprehensive. Brownells has it. | ||
one of us |
DEM-BART makes a nice starter kit for checkering, has all the tools you need to get started. I believe Brownells carries the kits. | |||
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one of us |
Dear Dago Red Years ago, I got the Dembart starting kit from Brownells and it is quite complete. I can also second the recommendation for Kennedy's book. I've used the kit to recut checkering on several guns with worn or damaged checkering -- this was recommended to me as the way to learn (and good advice that was too!). However, I can tell you that there is a world of difference between re-cutting existing checkering and "starting from scratch" (sorry about the pun). Luckily, I tried my first NEW checking on an axe handle (smooth, curved -- good for a final test!)before turning my attention to a gunstock. Well, it was bad. Real bad! I later made a few more attempts, but I now realize that I should confine my efforts to re-pointing existing checkering and nothing more. Getting it all right from the start is a LOT harder! I hope you have more patience than I! Good luck! jpb | |||
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Thank you all. I am printing this out as my shopping list for next month. I have about 3 stocks laying around that I won't use on a rifle that I can practice on. And most of the stocks on my rifles are not checkered yet, so if it looks like I am getting the hang of it I can practice on them. Red | |||
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one of us |
Get Montie Kennedy's book. Buy some tools, see what looks good to you. Be sure and get spacers that have a safe side. Turn the heads around so they cut on the pull, otherwise you will gash up the border. When you get tired of store bought tools make you own out of drill rod. See Kennedy's book. You will also want to make an extra long single line too for straightening out line that develope a curve. Use that plastic lableing tape for the "click-click" lettering machines with the wheel for selecting the character. If forget what they are called...Dymo or something. Anyway that hard plastic tape is wonderfull for laying out the first line. Scraps of steel measuring tape is nice too. Tape it to the stock and use it as a guide. Mostly it is practice practice practice. The power tools will go a lot faster but tend to make curvie lines. | |||
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one of us |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by scot: [QB]Get Montie Kennedy's book. Buy some tools, see what looks good to you. Be sure and get spacers that have a safe side. Turn the heads around so they cut on the pull, otherwise you will gash up the border. When you get tired of store bought tools make you own out of drill rod. See Kennedy's book. You will also want to make an extra long single line too for straightening out line that develope a curve. Use that plastic lableing tape for the "click-click" lettering machines with the wheel for selecting the character. If forget what they are called...Dymo or something. Anyway that hard plastic tape is wonderfull for laying out the first line. Scraps of steel measuring tape is nice too. Tape it to the stock and use it as a guide. Mostly it is practice practice practice. The power tools will go a lot faster but tend to make curvie lines. Use oblique lighting. Very important! A strong bulb that will cast a shadow about 2 feet away. A checkering cradle is a must. I turn the stock as I cut. | |||
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one of us |
Also for practice I simply went and bought some permade walnut banister pieces. They are good for practicing cutting on curves. | |||
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