I would like to know what oil to use on internal revolver parts.Since these parts are not accessible without disassemby for major clean and lube . What oil will stay on best????

Thanks Dyno

Interesting question. I`d be interested in opinions also.

Another poster some weeks ago said he got good results with transmission fluid. I had some Type F fluid on hand and tried it on several rifle bolts and found it to be uncanny in the way it seems to soak into the metal and not dry out.

Dyno--

Auto Transmission Fluid (ATF) is the best oil you can buy in that viscosity (which is perfect for guns). I use Dextron, but it makes no difference.

ATF is as good as the old Sperm Oil blends like Young's 303, Lightwood's #7, and all the Purdey, Holland, et al. but doesn't smell nearly as good.

BTW-- The super duper, gun oil craze is not the first time people have bought cheap oil with a distinctive smell. Buck Honing Oil is pure ATF with no purfume, special color or anything!!!

I use ATF for stoning and polishing, it works in my hydraulic barrel vise and runs in the headstock of my lathe, too.

Jack Belk

Have you compared synthetic ATF to regular ATF?

I was wandering if the synthetic would have less tendecies to gum up or solidify like some of the cheap gun oils do over a long period of time.

Also in Texas we have problems with gun oils bleeding off in our 100 degree plus summers, especially when guns are left in a vehicle you are talking about 140 to 150 degrees in a dark colored closed vehicle. Will the ATF stay put under those type extremes?

I'm always looking for something better. Lately I have had good results with an oil made by Break Free called Greased Lightning, it's supposed to be originally designed for military automatic wheapons under severe conditions and sustained automatic fire. It survives heat better and is not easily diluted or washed off by solvents.

Dyno

I'm not sure what everyone else uses for internal parts for revolvers. But here is what works for me in my shop and I have been repairing and maintaining revolvers for several years now.

First detail strip the gun and thoroughly clean. Degrease the hammer and trigger pivot pins,the rebound slide and their matching surfaces. Then apply molybdenum disulfide grease. This stuff will imbed itself in the pores and recesses of the metal providing you degrease it first. I then lubricate all the others parts with Break Free Greased Lightning.

Some of the revolvers I service are subjected to severe conditions in law enforcement and civilian concealed carry and this treatment has worked well for me.

For triggers I like FP 10. I always work trigger several times and wipe off excess.

For auto pistol slides I like RIG 7: colourless, odorless and seems to stay on longer.

Good shooting! Hermann

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I have been using US Military Weapons Oil, Medium, MIL-L46000A(2) made by Royal Lubricants Co. Not too thin or thick, it "hangs" and seems to work quite well. It says to shake well before use so it must have teflon in it(?).

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there's a fine line between hobby and mental illnes

Fascinating subject.
To answer your question about what stays on the best... I think jacks answer is as good as any. Along with gear lubricants, there are several chain industrial roller chain lubricants that have very tacky qualities also. Because most firearms are not subjected to high frequency cycles a heavy oil is desiriable. I will have to say however, I almost never use oil on internal parts in my firearms. I use grease, which when applied correctly, I feel becomes a better meter for lubricant. When you do have unusually rough, or inproper lay directions on finished surfaces, moly (3% or greater) or graphite will help smooth over surface asperitys'.... most ATFs have a sulfur-phosphorus compound in them to combat this also.
I mostly use white lithium complex greases or marine greases (very tacky). I would stay away from any that had a low drop point temp though.
Some that I like... LPS brands, stay plex, some lubriplate. But even the "cheep" white lithiums will do.

Thanks to everyone for the great info on lubricants and great tips from personal experience on revolver and firearm service.

Best ,Dyno

How about regular transmission oil like 90 weight? Is it extra viscous than ATF?

Saad

Yeah it is. Its pretty thick to be using in firearms mechanisms. Besides that it smells like shit. Well, sorta like sulphur shit.

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there's a fine line between hobby and mental illnes

Shikaree--

Gear oil and motor oil are altogether different than hydraulic oil, which is what ATF is. DON'T use motor/gear oils.

What is needed is a lubricant that sticks to the metal and doesn't significantly change viscosity over a very wide temperature range.

ATF is a super refined, light oil that's perfect for all guns. It IS mil. spec. in every regards. You can spend money on something that has a smell to it or a fancy name or the paid for(?) endorsement of gun writers, but what you're buying is ATF.

It's up to you to determine what you want to pay for the repackaging, advertising, perfume, and outrageous claims.

I tried ATF for the first time the other day. Used it to preserve my blackpowder barrel. Could hardly stand the smell of it though. Tried it because I've read about people using it on guns for quite some time. I believe it's a key ingredient in Ed's Red. I have used moly grease on other machines, and have noticed that the oil that the moly is suspended in tends to drain off in high temperatures. Anyone else notice this? Is there a type that doesn't do this?

I use WD40 or a local Q20 on a regular basis with good results

I've been using "Lucas (products) Gun Oil". Sticks like crazy, and protects from fingerprints. I don't think it is re-packaged ATF - it's too thick. I've been using it for several years, and I think it work great.

Good shootin', Bill

Mr. Belk, once again, thanks for some useful info. I will try ATF, usually have some around for my leaky transmissions...

I suppose ATF is ok for gun parts. If you use it then select a one with a pure synthetic base stock and that will lower the pour point.

Gear oils smell because of the EP additives which most greases contain also. A 90 wt gear gear oil is equal to a 50W motor oil. There are two different scales. Again if you use a gear oil then select a pure synthetic base stock.

Engine oils also contain R&O additives like the above lubricants and will resist rust. The evaporatation rate of a oil is a ASTM test called the Noak Volitility test. Those numbers are available on the sites of many lubricant companies.

There is nothing wrong at all with using a oil made for guns. You will use so little anyway. If you select one that has a mil. spec that relates to the purpose so much the better.

If you want to "save money" then just use a pure synthetic engine oil like I do. A 30W would be good and so would a 15W-40. A 5W-30 would have a lot more volitility and would evaporate faster.

Don't put oil on a sear surface. Clean it and brush on Moly.

There are a lot of specs at the custom blenders site. www.schaefferoil.com

Interesting Stuff Guys!
What would you recommend for B391 autos and Browning O/U internally and externally ?