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I recently just bought a 629 in 44. It only had 20 rounds down the tube.

I took it out a couple of times and shot it without incident. Last night after shooting it 6 times, I am having a hard time getting the cylinder out of the frame. I have to knock it on the other side with my palm to get it to pop out.

Any clues?
 
Posts: 187 | Location: Alberta Canada | Registered: 07 February 2005Reply With Quote
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powder fouling. I had it with my 686s. Spray it with a bore cleaner.
 
Posts: 3284 | Location: Mountains of Northern California | Registered: 22 November 2005Reply With Quote
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albertacoyote,

With the cylinder open, check the ejector rod for looseness. If it is loose on its threads it can back out far enough to still hold on to the locking pin in the housing when the cylinder is closed even with the release held fully forward. This might not be it at all, just one thing to check for.
 
Posts: 57 | Location: North Central Washington | Registered: 19 June 2003Reply With Quote
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I got it figured out now.
 
Posts: 187 | Location: Alberta Canada | Registered: 07 February 2005Reply With Quote
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The ejector rod was the culprit. Can I lock tight it?
 
Posts: 187 | Location: Alberta Canada | Registered: 07 February 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by albertacoyote:
I recently just bought a 629 in 44. It only had 20 rounds down the tube.

I took it out a couple of times and shot it without incident. Last night after shooting it 6 times, I am having a hard time getting the cylinder out of the frame. I have to knock it on the other side with my palm to get it to pop out.

Any clues?



STOP!!! Sounds like the ejector/extractor rod has come loose. It is a left hand thread so when it comes loose it will bind things up.

You need to first quit pounding the cylinder to get it to open and close. The yoke assembly is probably the most fragile piece of the gun and you can cause serious damage forcing it open. The yoke is strong enough for what it does, but it will not tolerate much abuse.

If the cylinder is now closed, you need to take a thin wooden stick like a popcicle stick, and shape one end like a wedge or chisle. You need to use this end to get between the knurled end of the rod and the barrel to turn the rod counter clockwise so to relax the tension.

If the cylinder is out, hold the cylinder with one hand and turn the rod counter clockwise. Then you will need to get the gun to a gunsmith to properly tighten the rod which takes a special tool and some cartridge blanks to keep from damagine the rachet. NEVER use loc-tite on these threads. They have to be properly tightened using special tools.

Repairs to double action Smiths, or, any good double action for that matter, can be pretty expensive if you are not careful. Never throw, or, forcefully swing or slam the cylinder in and out of the frame. It will knock the yoke and crane out of alignment and is costly to have re-aligned.

If you can't find a reputable pistolsmith to help you, PM me. Good luck!


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by albertacoyote:
The ejector rod was the culprit. Can I lock tight it?


No!


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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