I have a couple of VZ 24's that a gentleman is inquiring about having cut and stetched. I am looking for any info on a jig or fixture that is available or even plans to build one.
I would appreciate any ideas or information, especially from those that have done this type work before.

Thanks,
Sooner

It normally involves two actions. You make a cut that is off center so the front half is longer than the rear. Then on the other action you do the opposite so that the rear half is longer. You weld the long halves together and the short halves will make a Kurtz (short action). You have to do the same thing with the bolts. Knew of a guy in Oregon who used to do it. He charged way more than it was worth at least in my mind. You can buy a long action Sako and be off and running. And the fixtures you mentioned are the key to doing it right. I have not seen them. Would be willing to bet the Jim Wisner or his father knows the ins and outs of it.

I appreciate the quick reply, I have actually stretched one before, two almost. I did this mostly freehand, I got the magnum length action welded and fit perfect. I had a little more trouble with the short one, I couldn't get it to weld cleanly, I ended up with tons of porosity in the weld and couldn't clean it up. I only tried to weld on the shorter bolt and it went to shit fast. I still have the stretched magnum length action and longer bolt halves. I tried all this on a couple of old junked Turks, so I wouldn't ruin a good action. The only reason I am going to attempt it again is because this guy is such a good customer, and he doesn't care about price or a time frame. I have done a few searches on fixtures for this and I haven't found anything. I just don't know where to get any info, except from some of the older gunmakers, and alot of them won't reveal their secrets.

Sooner

I know of two books that discuss this conversion in some detail. One is "Gunsmithing" by Roy Dunlap and the other is "Riflesmithing" by Jack Mitchell.

They both cover fixtures and mandrels on 98 Mausers and Winchester model 70's.

I havent done any myself although I was a "student" of an old timer who was skilled at it. His methods were similar to those discussed in these two books.

In looking a different bolt actions,if I lengthened one I would cut two for a reciever
and weld together, like others have done
.But for the bolt I would take
lugs off of one, mill out the front, thread it and take front of other with lugs and thread it, and put them together.Do bolt first and it can
act a a jig, for getting action the same length.
Them make a longer firing pin, bottom metal,
etc.Ed.

Long time no see I'm at work right now but when I get home I will copy an EXCELLENT artical with photos & mail to you. Just email me your address.

Rather than try and weld two bolt halves together, I'd counter bore one of the haves, and turn down the other half a like amount, then use real silver solder ( the kind that is 100kpsi strong in shear and melts at 1100 degrees) to join the two halves. Jigged up all nice and proper of course.

Welding and grafting receivers sure seems like something fun to play with. If I ever figure out a slick way to lengthen the the extractor claw to engage the smaller case head, I'm going to take a model 96 Swede and shorten it up so it fits a 7.62x39 just perfect. Yum...

Regards,
Scott

Those are good ideas for the bolt, I may give that a shot. It has to work better than my last attempt to weld it. I have been thinking about welding it and sleeving the bolt to reinforce it. What length are the true magnum mausers? If I can get the magnum length right the mini action will naturally come out. On the two Turk actions I tried on before I measured and tried to make the length the same as the magnum CZ's and I think that might have made the mini action too short. I am going to start trying to design a jig, I'll probably get started monday, so if anyone has any suggestions or measurements I am definitely open to suggestions. I have a few ideas and might start tonight, after I get some ideas on paper and start building I would like to post and get some comments.

Thanks fellas

Chad

I did what you are proposing about 20yr. ago. I cut them 3/8" different and ground the edges, welded with a mig (I think) The recievers were the simple part.I bored the bolts and made an insert,firing pins were ground to a point then welded.It was a fun project that I wouldn't try again.These actions are still sitting here.Maybe time to get at them now.Mark

Come on Mark, its time to get back on it, you have to admit it, they will be pretty cool if they come together. I did a little work in the shop today. I think I have a pretty good idea for the action cutting and welding. Heres what I've got so far:
I have attached 2 aluminum blocks about the size of an action to a large plate of aluminum. They are about an inch apart, and offset 3/8" for cutting. I plan on milling slots in each block for a place for the recoil lugs to set down into, I then plan to drill and tap for the back action screw. This will allow me to firmly attach both actions. This way I can place this whole fixture in my bandsaw and cut both actions at once. Then I need to figure which way to switch the halves. I can either drill another hole for the other rear action screw, move the rear sections and weld it right there in the fixture or I can mill 2 recoil lug recesses into the posts and switch the front rings. I don't know which way would be more stable. I am going to build this jig out of aluminum and if works I am going to use it then make a few changes and build it out of steel later. I don't have many working ideas on the bolt, but am thinking about using a variation of Labountys bolt jig.

Doug, I sent you my address last night, I look forward to getting the information. Thanks.

Chad

Sooner, I used a jig made from 3" angle iron. Same fixture I use for holding mausers enfields etc. Holes drilled to match action screws. I also put a bolt thru mag.slot close to chamber for added strength. I cut them on at a time. I thought about using lathe and parting tool but bandsaw worked good.I spot welded the rear portion to a flatiron and clamped the front leaving a small gap to fill. One should devise a way to close up thumb slot as it looks funny with short action. I went out and brought both actions in. They are regular '98s marked byi.Looks like I still have mag. and triggerguard work.Good luck,Mark

Since I find all this rather interesting, I'll take this opportunity to register my first post here.

Do you think it would be possible to have a copy of that article sent this way too, either by e-mail or snail mail?
I have two FN 98 actions just waiting for a project like this...

As I'm in Sweden, e-mail would probably be more convenient, but I'm open to suggestions.

Pettson

[ 11-05-2003, 19:26: Message edited by: Pettson ]