Guys,

I've welded a new, low-profile bolt handle on my project Mauser. I'm pretty happy with how it looks. It interferes with the receiver and needs some shaping to close all of the way, plus needs some cosmetic grinding and filing. Do you guys just grind or file, then try for fit? Any recommendations? I've used a dremel tool for rough shaping, but I'm afraid I'll overdo it.

Tips or tricks appreciated.

Steve

I both grind and file. To put a nice radius on the bolt to clear a scope, I like to use a 2-3" dia abrasive cut off disc, using the edge of it puts on a nice radius.

STOP!

If I read your post correctly I think what is in order is a shallow radiused notch on the right side of the tang just behind the rear bridge to clear the bolt handle.

This will not "weaken" the action, but if you try to grind away the the "underside" of the bolt handle you will surely weaken the bolt handle. You will probably need to leave as much material on the "underside" of the handle as possible to allow material to be removed from the top to clear the scope.

As far as grinding to clear the scope, the radius on the end of a belt sander will do nicely.

the really nice professional ones I have seen do not use a round cut on the receiver. Rather, the smith usually cuts a flat angle into the receiver with a milling machine at just the correct angle, and then mills a very small flat on the underside of the bolt handle to rest against the flat on the receiver. Done correctly that method gives the greatest possible scope clearance and doesnt' require you to grind a bunch of metal off of the top of the bolt. Itlooks good as well.

Thanks, everybody.

Yes, I've notched the receiver. Still need to remove some metal on the bottom of the bolt as the steel got a little built up from the weld (bolt's not rotating all the way into battery, I think it'll clear the scope on the topside just fine).

Steve

Good old-fashioned files are your best choice for a quality end result. I usually use a thin, square model, but usually multiple shapes are required to really get in there and clean everything up.

Once the bolt is cleaned-up and looks good turn your attention to the tang cut-out. Only remove material until the bolt turns far enough down so that the safety will engage. You can take too much off.

You need a beer belly, a die grinder, a carbide bit, and some safety glasses.

Hold the bolt in one hand, the die grinder in the other hand, and pull the hands up against the belly for damping.

"Damping" is just engineering talk for "wet blanket".