I got my bolt back from my gunsmith today. I had him open the bolt face for an 8x68s. Now I need to modify the extractor to properly fit the cartridge.

What I'm looking for here are some tips or things to keep in mind while doing this. How should I go about doing this? Should I use a file or a dremel? It doesn't look like it will take much to fit this properly. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Tex

Tex21,

You need to tell the make and model of the action in order to get a reasonable answer. Most extractors can be cut with a fine half round file or use a power grinding tool. Most mausers that I altered were made to close on a case if the shell got pushed ahead of the extractor by jumping out of the rails. This can happen and can be very dangerous hunting lions. This conversion has to be made with very close tolerances. If too much metal is removed from an extractor the shell case can be dropped back into the action and cause a jam. A customer had a tiger get him on his knee because of a jam.

Sorry, I have had a bout of the flu this week and I've been sort of out of it.

The Mauser I'm working with is a Czech 98/22.

Sorry for the confusion.

Tex

I'd be REAL careful if you're going to use a Dremel, they take material off faster than they seem like they would. I'd stick with the file.

It's relatively easy to make the extractor snap over the case. Take off about 1/8" on both sides along the long section of the extractor. It's more of a feel thing than an exact measurement. You'll notice that the extractor loses a LOT of it's tension when you start trimming it down. It's kind of an iterave process, take some off and try it. Take some more off if you want less force to snap over the rim.

Best of luck with it.

irwin

I think this guy has been using too much "syrup" What's with trimming the sides of the extractor? Are you talking about making it norrower? Don't do it! You need to work on the hook and can probably get enough off using a round hone.

Listen to Kobe, don't be a gun butcher..

why not just have the gunsmith do it

Perhaps because Tex is an inquisitive lad who may relish the idea of learning somethng by doing it himself? After all, altering an extractor doesn't require a lathe unlike opening a boltface.

quote:

Originally posted by z1r:
Perhaps because Tex is an inquisitive lad who may relish the idea of learning somethng by doing it himself? After all, altering an extractor doesn't require a lathe unlike opening a boltface.

My thoughts indeed.

It will only require @ max .020" to be taken off of the extractor.

To go the "snap over" rouute, chamfer the face of the extracter @ about 45* being careful not to bring the edge to a "knife edge". Very little will have to be removed, just enough so that the claw will ride over the rim of the extractor groove.

BTW; Get the plier tool that is made for the extractor removal/replacement. The extractor is not difficult to remove, but it can be a "bear" to replace. They are only a few $s and you will probably have to remove and replace the extractor several time to "fit" it properly.

A friend explained the extractor trimming to me, it sounded reasonable so I did it. It's a hell of a lot easier than it seems, even the average garage idiot (me) can do it. On a bench grinder no less (collective gasp from the crowd). Followed up with a file, buffer, and polish naturally.

Tex, it's your extractor, do what you want with it. As an added bonus, if you take some of the tension out of the back of the extractor, you won't need a lever or prybar to remove or install the extractor. What it won't do is compensate for a different rim size.

Jim, it's an extractor--not a Picasso or Rembrandt.

irwin

irwin

Nothing wrong with doing it yourself. Go to a gunshow or Numrichs and get an extractor to practice on. If I need to shave metal or something similar I always have a spare part around if practical.

ZM