What is the minimum amount of coats of True Oil I should put on my stock? Can I avoid building up the coats to a gloss? Basically I want a finish like a Sako Finnfire, flat with no sheen at all. Can it be done or should I be avoiding that type of finish.

Thanks

Lazo G

As best as I recall I've not used more than three coats before the it started getting too glossy for my tastes. Some 0000 steel wool worked very lightly over the True-Oil will bring it back to more of a satin, rather than gloss, look.

If the wood is worth the effort, put it on until all the pores are filled. Usually, 12-20 coats. When done, take the sheen off with rottenstone, or similiar.

Bob, with three coats is the stock fairly weatherproof and durable (within reason, I don't expect you'll be bouncing it off rocks or going scuba diving with it).

The rifle I used it on, about 30yrs ago, I seem to remember about 7 or 8 coats before the pores all seemed to be evenly filled... the finish was very glossy, but, as Pedestal stated, you can knock the sheen off with rottenstone, or even steel wool.... you want to be sure the pores in the wood are filled, to avoid moisture penetration....

Tru-Oil is a varnish-like finish that produce a glossy film, despite that it's classified as an oil finish.

You can put it on the stock, wait for dry, and then kill the gloss with rottenstone, steel wool, or sand paper. This will produce tiny scratches that makes the surface matte, but there's still a glassy hard film you can feel by tapping with your fingernail. The glassy film gives the wood a more "full" look and might be better for weather protection. Stocks with scratches and dings don't take this method well, as the gloss inside the dent don't get the abraisive treatment and remains shiny after the rest of the stock becomes matte. The gouges really stand out after this. Some of the corners and edges that take more abrasive action will fade in color.

The other alternative to achieve non-gloss finish is to put the finish on the stock, wait till it becomes very sticky, then take a clean rag(s) and rub the hell out of the stock. The rubbing will push the gummy finish into the wood pores(also checkering, so be discreet) and eliminate surface finish. A stock done with this method looks and feels more like the original wood and is of coarser matte, doesn't look that "juicy" compared to the method above. The rag must be clean, without any lubricant oils and must be disposed of carefully or cleaned to avoid fire hazard.

I was once told this by a stock refinisher.....

Once an hour for a day, once a day for a week and once a week for a month........

I've tried it this way myself and the finish was super tough.

Unless your wood is extremely dense use B-C Stock Sealer Filler. Lay it on thick in all directions, forcing it into the pores. When dry cut excess back to wood with fine steel wool. Rub well with a tack cloth so that no particles of steel wool are left. Inspect to insure there are no unfilled pores. Fill again if necessary.

Once the stock is sealed and filled Less really is More. Just a few drops hand rubbed should nearly cover the forend or one side of the butt. Stretch it as far as you can. Repeat until satisfied. If finish wants to ball up on you cut it back to wood and start again. You are using too much and not allowing enogh drying time.

Alternatively use Acraglass for sealer filler. heat stock with hair dryer and brush it in.

Wally
Wally

Thanks for the replies, lot's of good tips there. What I'd still like to know is what the recommended (in your opinion or experience) minimun amount of coats of True Oil I should or could use?

By the way I'm not asking this coz I'm lazy it's just that I'm not crazy about that thick built up (I'm not sure how to describe it) look of True Oil.

Thanks again