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Originally posted by RoyceCool:
I have trued the front face of my mauser action with an action arbor (on a lathe), it seemed to be about .003 out of square. Can I take the same amount out of the inner bore bottom after indicating the trued face, to true it to the outer face?
Should the barrel end to thread shoulder dimention be the same dimmention as the action front face to inner bore bottom?
Im sure this has been brought up before but I couldnt find the answer serching for it. Hope im clear enough in my description. Thanks alot.
Turn the barrel shank so that it will tighten with a 1 or 2 thou crush fit Simultaneosly against the inner and outer ring.
Wally |
| | | Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002 | 
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| I am no expert, as some here are, but I:
1) True receiver face to bolt bore.
2) True inner face to outer face.
3) Align bolt axis parallel with axis of bolt bore.
4) Lap lugs.
Then I cut the chamber, threads, and shoulders on the barrel to match the distance I measure between the faces of the receiver. I cut the threads at 55 degrees and size them to just allow the receiver to screw on hand tight till the shoulder and faces touch. I torque the barrel to ~~300 foot pounds and finish the last few thousands of chamber cut so the bolt just closes [on pound of force on bolt handle] on a case sized in my die. |
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| Wow instant answers! Great!
Clark I follow you, do you take the barrel off to ream the last few thou. out of the chamber or can you do it with the barrel torqued on?
Is a 55 deg. thread standard on barrel threading, instead of 60 deg.? The barrel I have is threaded but needs about a .010 or so deeper chamber. Im trying to do this myself so Ill probobly use reamerrental.com
Thanks. |
| | | Posts: 11 | Location: California | Registered: 25 February 2003 |
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| I can't calculate thread crush, so I torque the barrel on for all I am worth and measure the headspace with my pitiful collection of mutilated brass with pieces of masking tape on the back. When I get real close I use pieces of .0015" shim material.
55 degrees is for Mausers, most new guns are 60 degress or 90 degrees [square].
[ 07-03-2003, 09:12: Message edited by: Clark ] |
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| I put moly grease on the threads and on the shoulders and I put my 175 pounds of weight on the action wrench cheater bar 2 feet from the center line and then I hit it with a sledge hammer. I figured that I want the rifle to be stiff with the reciever. It takes about the same to get it back off, but years from now it may become a big pain to get it off. |
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| quote:
Originally posted by Clark:
I put moly grease on the threads and on the shoulders and I put my 175 pounds of weight on the action wrench cheater bar 2 feet from the center line and then I hit it with a sledge hammer. I figured that I want the rifle to be stiff with the reciever. It takes about the same to get it back off, but years from now it may become a big pain to get it off.
Do you get a reverse variable rate twist with this tecnique ![[Smile]](images/icons/smile.gif)
Wally |
| | | Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002 |
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| so, can you get the barrel tightened on and then use the finish reamer to hand cut the last few thousandths of the chamber when it is all assembled? maxman |
| | | Posts: 337 | Location: Minnesota, USA | Registered: 23 December 2002 |
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| Always been tempted to do this. Such a headache to remove barrel to adjust head space. Might work but I've never tried it. But then I don't barrels much over 80 pounds or so. Good enough for the lug nuts on 1 ton truck.
This way I can leave the barrel setup in my lathe. Remove action. Remeasure distance from breach to base of guage. I usually find why chamber came up short here. I don't spin up my lathe. Instead turn chuck by hand for the few thousands I need.
Wally |
| | | Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002 |
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| Thanks for all the info. I have everything square and I measure about .001 crush for the barrel.
My next Question is can you make the headspace bigger any way other than reamming the chamber or shimming the barrel out? I have about .010 only to make it right. Has anyone ever taken a small amount off the bolt face to achieve this?
Royce. |
| | | Posts: 11 | Location: California | Registered: 25 February 2003 |
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| quote:
Originally posted by RoyceCool:
Thanks for all the info. I have everything square and I measure about .001 crush for the barrel.
My next Question is can you make the headspace bigger any way other than reamming the chamber or shimming the barrel out? I have about .010 only to make it right. Has anyone ever taken a small amount off the bolt face to achieve this?
Royce.
0.010 is quite a bit. Why would you do that. Why not just use your reamer?Much better than lengthening your firing pin 0.010 and moving extractor forward 0.010
Wally
[ 07-04-2003, 03:49: Message edited by: wallyw ] |
| | | Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002 |
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| I didnt think it was a good idea and im sure ill rent a reamer, just was wandering if it could be done. .010 is quite a bit. Thanks alot to all for the info. Ill rent the reamer and post how it came out in a week or so. Take care!
Royce. Happy 4th! |
| | | Posts: 11 | Location: California | Registered: 25 February 2003 |
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| I don't know if it will work for .010", but I have seen a single shoulder FAL get the the shoulder hit with a hammer all the way around and grow. |
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| Thanks Clark. Ill go with the reamer. This is my 2nd mauser, the first is a 300 win mag., and the second hand barrel I used was headspaced perfect when I put the barrel on (lucky) Im a machinist so I should be able to ream the chamber at work.
Thanks again. Brian(my real name) |
| | | Posts: 11 | Location: California | Registered: 25 February 2003 |
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