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Best finish for laminate
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I bought an unfinished laminate stock from Boyd's, and need some help pickinga finish for it. What is the most durable finish for a laminate? Is there an epoxy or polyurethane that will strengthen the stock and waterproof it? Should I use a stain or oil on the stock to bring out the grain before putting a top coat on?
 
Posts: 428 | Location: Bozeman, MT | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I'm no expert, but you have to be carefule staining lam stocks, they can go green color if you try to make them to dark. I've done a couple and you have to be careful with the stain. If they go green, hit it with a lighter color stain on top of the dark and sometime it takes the green away. I personlly would not spend much time on it, keep in mind, it's plywood.


Billy,

High in the shoulder

(we band of bubbas)
 
Posts: 1868 | Location: League City, Texas | Registered: 11 April 2003Reply With Quote
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DO NOT use a poly-eurethane type finish. You WILL end up with a pretty green stock if you are using a grey/black laminate. If you are using a brown laminate you are fine with poly. I took mine down to a buddies auto body shop after I had prepped it to 400grit. He sprayed 2 coats of automotive epoxy clear coat. I then wet sanded with 400grit to remove any missed imperfections and he then sprayed 2 more coats. I let it cure for 30 days then wet buffed it out with 000 steel wool for a very nice satin finish that is almost indestructable.


William Berger

True courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway. - John Wayne

The courageous may not live forever, but the timid do not live at all.
 
Posts: 3156 | Location: Rigby, ID | Registered: 20 March 2004Reply With Quote
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West System Epoxy

Use the #207 Hardener

Waterproof and very hard durable finish.

Elmo
 
Posts: 586 | Location: paloma,ca | Registered: 20 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the tip. My stock is black/grey. I definately wouldn't want it to be green.
 
Posts: 428 | Location: Bozeman, MT | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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It can be a PITA to work with, but once successfully applied, regular Accraglas (NOT the Gel form) thinned to about 50% of its normal runny consistency, makes a great stock finish.

It can be left full gloss, or dulled down to a nice satin appearance, and is virtually indestructable, not to mention VERY waterproof and fairly dent resistant.

Thinner is sold by Brownells, and also identified in the Accraglass packet should one wish to buy quantities elsewhere.

As an example, I have a very nice Carl Gustaff 6.5x55 laminated stock sporter/varminter done this way by one of the former Griffin & Howe stockers. It was done in 1985 or so, has seen a lot of shooting (including one re-barrel to same cartridge), and still doesn't show a mark on it.

Jose


My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still.

 
Posts: 9685 | Location: Cave Creek 85331, USA | Registered: 17 August 2001Reply With Quote
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Every epoxy I've worked with thins with acetone.

Mix up 75% epoxy.hardener with 25% acetone. Brush it on with a disposable brush (foam brush.) Keep reapplying as it soaks in. When no more soaks into the wood, wipe the exess off and let it cure a couple days. Sand out the imperfections.
repeat.

At this point, you can apply the finish of your choice. I like mixing up a bit more epoxy/acetone and wipe it on, cure, sand repeat until I get a uniform cover with no wood exposed then wet sand with progressively finer paper down to 2000 grit. Results in a rich, low gloss finish that's very durable and water-proof.
 
Posts: 151 | Registered: 15 February 2002Reply With Quote
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I do a lot of Boyd's stocks, after the sanding and finishing the barrel channel,if I am going to do that: I always apply a coat of Formsby Tung Oil Finish, let dry for 24 hours. Apply a second coat, and let dry for 24 hours. ( both with a sponge applicator from Walmart).

The with a sponge applicator, I apply a coat of Minwax " Wipe ON Poly" in Clear Satin, and let dry for 24 hours. Give it a light steel wool rub down and then apply a second coat and repeat the steel wool after 24 hours of drying.

I prefer the satin finish as opposed to the gloss. The tung oil is also Low Gloss.

I have NO green laminated stocks at my house.
The Grey ones stay grey and the Brown ones stay Brown.

They look great and wear great. Occasionally I have had a few get scuffed up because of BAD mishaps out hunting. I sand down the area that got banged up, and just reapply the finish to that area in the same way. The damage disappears.

"That's all I have to say about that."

Cheers and good shooting
seafire
 
Posts: 16144 | Location: Southern Oregon USA | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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If I use an epoxy like Acra-Glass how much will I need? Can I get small quantities of some of the other epoxies that were mentioned?
I would like to put one coat of oil on the stock to bring out the grain. Will epoxy bond to a stock that has an oil or stain on it? Does Acra-Glass yellow if exposed to UV rays?
 
Posts: 428 | Location: Bozeman, MT | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Flecto Varathane is a good finish that I have used before,but I believe the best one is Permalyn Sealer from Brownell's. It gives a very durable oil finish.
DOug
 
Posts: 1332 | Location: Western NC | Registered: 08 January 2005Reply With Quote
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