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How are the correct dimensions determined when building a stock. I haven't seen any books that detail the grip length, diameter, forearm diameter or shape ect. I bought one book from Wolf Publishing on stockmaking and it was very good but did not go into these aspects of design. Comments appreciated. | ||
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one of us |
When I first got the urge to make my own stocks, I had a heck of a time finding design information. Ultimately , I came up with three sources. 1. The Gun Digest Book of Riflesmithing by Jack Mitchell. Pretty good general reference for stock dimensions. May be available from Brownells. 2. Modern Gunsmithing by Clyde Baker. This book starts at square one and progresses through the whole stockmaking process. Only one problem - it was published in 1933!! It was perfect for my needs because it focused on using hand tools. 3. The NRA Gunsmithing Guide-Updated. I got this from Brownells a number of years ago. It appears Brownells still offers a number of stock-making/gunsmithing books. I don't buy them because the price doubles when they hit the border between our countries. | |||
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<1GEEJAY> |
My stock maker has me come in when the stock reaches the point where some fitting must take place.It took several sessions,for him to get all the dimensions,Cast,length of pull,grip,Etc. 1geejay www.shooting-hunting.com | ||
<500 AHR> |
1GEEJAY, Who is your stockmaker? Todd E | ||
one of us |
quote: Number 2 above is a great book for stockmaking info. It covers in depth the types of woods used, and also breaks out the design of stocks for different types of shooting and why. It's available at Brownell's and elsewhere. Number 3 above isn't laid out as logical as the other book, but is a great collection of wisdom, and covers repairs and upgrades nicely. It's out of print, but if you search on the web a good used copy can be had real cheap! Haven't seen the first book in the list, maybe I'll have to get one... | |||
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one of us |
Thanks for the replies. | |||
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One of Us |
Roger, Length of pull is set more by your body build than anything else. I like to have someones nose be around 1" to 1 1/2" from his thumb over the grip when he shoulders the rifle. That way you will be close enough to take advantage of the eye relief of the scope and far enough away to avoid "scope eye." As far as the grip thickness, it is more dependant on the caliber, with the heavy recoiling rifles being a lot thicker to avoid becoming a two piece rifle and the lighter stuff being smaller. It still has to fit your hands so if you are building it for yourself, find something that you like, wrap a string around it and use that as a measure. Most things on a stock start with the bore line. You lay out the nose of the comb and have it around 5/8" below the bore, then the heel is the same or maybe 3/4". The end of the stock is determined by the LOP. The depth of the stock at the butt is more dependant on recoil, you will want a large pad on a .458, and not so on a .257 Roberts. The bottom line of the stock intersects at the rear of the trigger guard. The forend is around 1" short of half the barrel length. Maybe a bit longer on short barrels, shorter on British stalking rifles with sling swivel bands. The line of the bottom metal extends to the end of the forend unless you are doing a schnable. On big barrels make the forend wider with a wider flat at the top, and conversely smaller with a smaller flat on the little guys. I position grip so that the forward point is around 3.3" from the rear of the trigger guard and 3.9" below the line of the bore. The nose of the comb is midway on the grip. Some grips may be a bit shorter and some a bit longer depending on the customer. The angle of the grip cap will extend up and intersect the top of the stock around 2" from the butt. That can vary of course. Brownells used to sell some full size prints of stocks for model 70's and 98's that were drafted by Jerry Fisher and they have cross sections all along the stock. Invaluable when I was a rookie. I dont know if they still have them but I bet Jerry would ship you one. He is still in Kalispell Mt. Now you know everything I do about stockmaking and I will have to come up there and kill you. Hope the winter is melting away up there. Chic [This message has been edited by Customstox (edited 04-16-2002).] [This message has been edited by Customstox (edited 04-16-2002).] | |||
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one of us |
"Now you know everything I do about stockmaking and I will have to come up there and kill you." HA!! That's funny...maybe in about 20 years. And that's if I stop doing what I am now and start making stocks. I have copied and saved your post. It's obvious my .500 A-Sq is way too long then. Just sitting here thinking about it it seems long by around 2 inches. I just plant the butt into my shoulder and hang on. That is a wealth on info you gave me, thank you very much. The stockmaking book I have is loaded with black and white photos, I can't remember the guys name but he did do a good book. Showed a photo of a stock wth chalked lines on it, "to show where the flow is", or something very close to it. Now you have explained where "the flow" flows too!! Thanks again. The winter is melting. It really smelled of spring this morning. We had some wet snow over the weekend but it is going quickly. My wife drove down to Napakiak on the river this weekend, it hasn't gone out yet. Still winter in Southwestern. | |||
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One of Us |
The book sounds like the one by David Westbrook. "Professional Stockmaking" | |||
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one of us |
That's it!! I couldn't remember the name. | |||
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