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Cross bolts or glass bedding
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OK, I got scared. I have a CZ 550, .416 Rigby. I've shot over 100 rds. with no stock splitting. Just to be safe is glass bedding to keep the wood from splitting or should it have cross bolts and glass bedding?
 
Posts: 426 | Location: Nevada | Registered: 14 July 2003Reply With Quote
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I have glasssed in internal threaded rods that have worked well in big rifles.

Much easier and cheaper than cross-bolts.
 
Posts: 3994 | Location: Hudsonville MI USA | Registered: 08 June 2000Reply With Quote
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the answer is YES to both
jeffe
 
Posts: 40075 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
<G.Malmborg>
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HST,

Without support, a heavy recoiling gun can batter a stock to pieces over time. Cross bolts are used to aid in holding things together, while bedding helps to keep things from shifting around. For big kickers in wood, I agree, I would do both...

Malm
 
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Getting ready to stock my 45/70 Siam Mauser. Crossbolt or not?
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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I have a Brno ZKK 602 in 375 H&H without glass bedding or crossbolts. I�ve fired several hundred rounds through it without splitting but the gun is very heavy when loaded, with a massive scope and sling. What do you think, should I touch it?
 
Posts: 1020 | Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina | Registered: 21 May 2003Reply With Quote
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nainital...
Mike bought a 602 in 458 win mag (now a 470 mbogo) that the stock, without crossbolts, shattered on the 7th shot.. i KNOW it was in MY hands when it did...

then, what, 2 months later, my 500 jeffe also broke the stock, as I didn't install a barrel recoil lug, after ~300 shots...

in NEITHER case did i receive a cheek full of rifle... but i did get whacked, hard.

jeffe
 
Posts: 40075 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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A lot of CZ's have split out the factory stocks, and thats to be expected in factory rifles...I sure glass bed it...cross bolts probably are not necessary but sure don't hurt....If its a 458 lott or bigger then definatly cross bolts and glass...

Also a hidden threaded bolt in the recoil lug can help I guess...

If the gun does not shift then it won't split the stock, there has to be movement to split a stock from shooting.
 
Posts: 42226 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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I put a 416 Taylor in a very simple Boyd stock to see If I liked the cartridge and split it with the second shot (mild load). After crossbolt and bedding and relieving the tang about 1/32nd more I have fired maybe 300 full house loads and no more movement. It is simply the same stock, now checkered after glueing and reassembly.
Use both for any big thumper.
Frank
 
Posts: 6935 | Location: hydesville, ca. , USA | Registered: 17 March 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by hacksawtom:
OK, I got scared. I have a CZ 550, .416 Rigby. I've shot over 100 rds. with no stock splitting. Just to be safe is glass bedding to keep the wood from splitting or should it have cross bolts and glass bedding?

Cross Bolts will not prevent splitting in a poorly bedded stock.

Insure that receiver is well bedded against back of recoil lug and bottom of front ring and under tang. Be sure to relieve sides and front of recoil lug and back of tang.

If the receiver cannot move in its bedding stock will not split. Add the cross bolt if you like the looks of it.

Wally
 
Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks much. My CZ has blonde wood with dark stripes thru it and I don't want to take a chance on lossing the stock, so, I do what you guys said.
 
Posts: 426 | Location: Nevada | Registered: 14 July 2003Reply With Quote
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When you epoxy bed it use glass "mini-fibers" in the mix.You can colour the mix to match the stock with earth pigments.I use aircraft grade epoxy mix everywhere I can fit some in.I had a Husky-FN with a beech stock,that likely explains it. [Wink]
 
Posts: 480 | Location: B.C.,Canada | Registered: 20 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Ditto Terry's answer.

I start with a stainless steel threaded bolt, cut the head off and grind two opposing flats, one to go against the lug and the other rearward facing.

The rearward facing flat is ground so to prevent the circular shape of the bolt from acting as a wedge.

This method requires hogging out a lot of wood but has worked well so far.
 
Posts: 612 | Location: Atlanta, GA USA | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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DWT
your quote "You can hunt longer with the wind at your back"

SHOULD read.. you WILL be hunting longer....

jeffe
 
Posts: 40075 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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The late Henry Cheatham said he never used crossbolts but instead put a steel plate behind the recoil lug when he made a stock. The steel butted against the recoil lug on the barrel. Henry said he never had a stock split this way and he made stocks for 70 years. He said it was almost impossible to do after the stock was made. He put a cross bolt in a CZ602 375 for me but didn't think it necessary with the one already there and the steel plate against the recoil lug in that rifle. Of course nothing ever moved in one of Henry's stocks because the metal and wood were indistinguishable. I don't know if the CZ 550 has the steel plate but the 602 did.
 
Posts: 1275 | Location: Fla | Registered: 16 March 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by craigster:
Getting ready to stock my 45/70 Siam Mauser. Crossbolt or not?

I've shot mine with some "potent" loads, and haven't had a problem. It is glass bedded.
 
Posts: 432 | Location: Baytown, TX | Registered: 07 November 2001Reply With Quote
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