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cutting down screws to length
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I was in a bind shortening some screws today. I was mounting a new mount to my Rem 40X and needed shorter screws than came with the mount. I know everyone has their own method and this may not be news to anyone but me. In the past I have preferred to mill the length in a jig. I no longer have access to a machine shop and don't have any machines at home other than a grinder. The screws in question were 6-48. As I was looking for a way to hold them I spied some old cracked 38spl brass in the scrap bin. Got an idea! Deprimed and enlarged the flashhole, then using a starter tap cut the threads. I screwed the little bugger in and after putting a drop of oil on the screw went to the grinder. It worked like a champ! I was able to grind the screw to the neccessary length and bevel the edge of the thread. I may now do this more often when I need a holder for those little buggers.

Andy B


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Posts: 2973 | Location: South Texas | Registered: 15 January 2008Reply With Quote
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the screw gizzy brownells sells works great too! 2 thin pieces of spring stock help together by a rivet similar to a feeler gauge, one piece has a hole in it that the body of the screw fits through and the other piece goes over the top of the first trapping the screw head between them. This design allows you to use the tool with multiple TPI. In the end it is whatever works best for you.
Steve
 
Posts: 3770 | Location: Boulder Colorado | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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I use a piece of flat bar, approx 1/8" and have multiple 6-48 holes drilled and tapped into it. I use small washers as shims to adjust the length. I tighten the screws w/their adj washers and cut off with a hack saw; I would use a Dremel, but I never have cutoff wheels(LOL). I then grind the screw flush and square. Removing the screw typically removes the burr on the last thread or I hit it with a small file. When the area on my flat bar isn't flat anymore due to grinding, I use a new hole.


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Posts: 1629 | Location: Potter County, Pennsylvania | Registered: 22 June 2005Reply With Quote
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There is usually a way to chuck the screw in a battery drill and then spin as you grind to get a good flat job. I have scotch brite in the other wheel to finish the job. When you can't get a good grip just go a little lighter on the wheel.
 
Posts: 77 | Registered: 05 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I use a piece of stock 3/8" wide and 1/8" thick 4" long that I drill and tap with holes for the common screw sizes I use. To shorten a screw I thread one into the right hole as far as I want it with the part I want taken off on the far side. Then I take it to my belt grinder and grind it flat, flush with the tool. When I unscrew it the threaded hole cleans up the screw threads and the end stays nice and square. Works a whole lot better than the screw gizzy and is very fast and precise.


John Farner

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Posts: 2947 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
the screw gizzy brownells sells works great too!

I stopped having screws whipped across the shop, grabbed by the wheel and mangled and just having a general tough time with the little buggers when I bought my "Screw Gizzy".


"I ask, sir, what is the Militia? It is the whole people. To disarm the people is the best and most effective way to enslave them" - George Mason, co-author of the Second Amendment during the Virginia convention to ratify the Constitution
 
Posts: 1699 | Location: San Antonio, TX | Registered: 14 April 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by drewhenrytnt:
I was in a bind shortening some screws today. I was mounting a new mount to my Rem 40X and needed shorter screws than came with the mount. I know everyone has their own method and this may not be news to anyone but me. In the past I have preferred to mill the length in a jig. I no longer have access to a machine shop and don't have any machines at home other than a grinder. The screws in question were 6-48. As I was looking for a way to hold them I spied some old cracked 38spl brass in the scrap bin. Got an idea! Deprimed and enlarged the flashhole, then using a starter tap cut the threads. I screwed the little bugger in and after putting a drop of oil on the screw went to the grinder. It worked like a champ! I was able to grind the screw to the neccessary length and bevel the edge of the thread. I may now do this more often when I need a holder for those little buggers.

Andy B

A "screw gizzy" made from a cartridge case.....


"Bitte, trinks du nicht das Wasser. Dahin haben die Kuhen gesheissen."
 
Posts: 4386 | Location: New Woodstock, Madison County, Central NY | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I just chuck the screw head in a pin vise and use my belt sander. It is easy to chamfer the end after grinding also.


Do it right the first time.
 
Posts: 239 | Location: North Smithfield, RI USA | Registered: 09 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I tap holes in a flat bar and counter set the holes on the mill for different lengths.

I screw the screw into the bar and hold the bar up to the grinder.

If I do this enough times, the bar starts to get thinnerSmiler
 
Posts: 9043 | Location: on the rock | Registered: 16 July 2005Reply With Quote
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In the '70s I bought my Dad a tool like a miniature bolt cutter. It was shaped like an "R". one handle ran full length and the other levered a compunding toggle. The working end had two plates flat together there were lots of holes on one plate and corresponding threaded hole on the other. It has all the US screw threads up to maybe 1/4". It w2as slick. You just srewed your piece in and cut it off it backed out with good threads. Like the feature on some electical tools, only bigger. I recently conducted an extensive search for one of these tools and have not only not found one, but not found any evidence that they ever existed. I bought it inb a S&Q hardware store in Northern MN. It had yellow handles and I thought it was Stanley. I finally gave up.
 
Posts: 149 | Registered: 17 January 2009Reply With Quote
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Posts: 9043 | Location: on the rock | Registered: 16 July 2005Reply With Quote
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