Shilen's website says they don't approve of fluted barrels. So what do you gunsmiths think?

I think they are a waste of money but it is yours to do with as you please.

Never mind, went to search & there is about a million posts to this type question. I guess I better get to reading.

I bought a fullet Kimber and it works like a charm so I am happy

Fluted barrels are like mag wheels........if you like the looks of 'em, go for it, but don't expect any real performance differences.

Jack is exactly right, it is for looks and weight only. I do a lot of fluted barrels, but absolutely disagree with all of the BS about them.

Well...they are a little lighter.

Mr. Belk and Mr. Lewis'

I would appreciate your advise. I have a Model 700 fitted with a Shilen chromoly #4 barrel finished at 24" and chambered in 25-06 Remington. It's pillar bedded into a Mcmillan stock and weighs 9 1/2 lbs. scoped with a Leupold 4.5-14 scope in Burris Signature rings and bases. This is my first custom rifle and was put together by Howard Deitz in New Braunsfels, Tx. The rifle will shoot, with me doing the shooting, 5 shot groups under 1/2" consistently using Rl 22 and 100 gr. Nosler BT's. The only thing I wish differently is if the balance point of the rifle was further back, closer to the front guard screw hole. My choices, as I see it, are to 1) leave the rifle alone and quit whining; 2) shorten the barrel by an inch or two, incidentally I am getting 3350 avg. FPS with the above mentioned load; or 3) have the barrel fluted. Doug Shilen has told me that fluting the barrel will most assureadly ruin the accuracy. What do ya'll think? Thanks in advance. Roger.

There are BR guys out there fluting barrels in order to make weight after putting on the new Leupold BR scope. I haven't paid much attention but I don't think there is any overwhelming conclusion that this (fluting) is a mistake.

If you're not worried about making weight for competition yet want to move the balance point further to the rear, I should think one of your best options is to add weight to the stock. That should be much cheaper and most likely a much better option then messing around with the crown or else fluting.

Good luck.

Reed

Roger, I know you are asking the advice of the "professionals" in here, but you'll have to live with the rest of us "mere mortals" chipping in.

I'll agree with the previous contributor about option#4: epoxy a bit of lead shot into (the inside of) your buttstock, until the rifle balances the way you want it to.

Good idea?? Depends on how weight conscious you are.

Some people believe one should not fiddle (as in changing contour or whatever) with barrels that are button-rifled - something to do with stress?? Others will be better qualified to say something about this.

- mike

[ 01-16-2003, 22:24: Message edited by: mho ]

thmpr---

I agree with the other posters....add weight to the rear. I use tire weights taped to the stock to adjust balance the way I want it then drill a hole in the butt, pour in enough birdshot to make the weight you want then pour in thinned 5 minute epoxy to set it there for good.

I'm a firm believer in not messing with a barrel that shoots well. That goes for cutting, fluting or anything else.

The easiest way is to add weight to the butt. If the barrel is fluted properly it will not ruin accuracy. I am very particular about the way I flute. I do it very slowly. I keep the barrel cool. I don't flute as deep as many others. Also, I flute parallel to the bore, not parallel to the contour. This keeps the wall thickness at the bottom of the flutes even and I feel it does not disturb the bore. I have fluted many Shilen barrels, despite the fact that Shilen says it voids the warrantee, and never had any problems with it. I'll give you an example of accuracy. I just finished a .300 Jarrett a couple of weeks ago. It has a #4 Pac-Nor barrel that I fluted. Last Thursday, while working up loads, I shot a 3-shot a group that measured .079"I followed this up with groups of .350", .250", .200" with 165 Ballistic Tips at 3475 fps. Then I shot three groups around .600" with 180 Partitions at 3300 fps. If fluting ruined the accuracy of this barrel, then I would be scared to see what it would have done before.

Now having said all of that, bad fluting can ruin a barrel. I've seen it done before. Also, fluting the barrel will change the harmonics of the barrel and it might not shoot the same load as it did before.

Just about all my rifles have fluted barrels but that is my preference. (Mostly about looks and a little about weight.) I believe that most of the top barrel makers flute their barrels before the do the final lapping so that the interior dimentions are consistant.

If you've got a 25-06 that shoots that well DON'T MESS WITH IT!!!!!!!

[ 01-17-2003, 00:26: Message edited by: Speedy ]

Life is funny. First, thanks for all the input gentlemen. It really helps. After I posted this morning, I left the office for lunch and went by our local indoor 100 yard range to check the zero on my rifle (the before mentioned 25-06) because this weekend is our last for whitetail deer and I need to take a couple of more does off the ranch. Anyhow, I fire my first shot from a cold barrel and it goes exactly1/2" from point-of-aim (usual of this gun) and I then proceed to put the next 4 shots into a .236" hole. My absolute best ever with any gun. I guess for know this old barrel heavy, non-balancing rifle is going to stay as is! Thanks again for all the comments. Roger.